We often call out issues or defects during a home inspection that lead us to recommend evaluation and repair by licensed contractors. But sometimes that contractor shows up and tells the owner or buyer, “There’s absolutely nothing wrong with this. The home inspector was paranoid.”

Who’s right?

The short answer is, both of us might be wrong, and both of us might be right.

Corroded electrical panel

Corrosion is just one of the issues in this electrical panel.

Let’s take an example: a corroded electrical panel, like the one to the right. To a home inspector, corrosion means water, and water and electricity don’t play well together. We will call for repair or replacement of the panel. When the electrician shows up, they could very well look at the panel and say, “Yes, there’s corrosion, but it’s not that bad and I don’t think it needs to be replaced.”

Now what?

The best thing to do in this situation is to ask the contractor to declare in writing that the particular system does not have a defect and is safe to operate as is. This declaration should be on the company letterhead, complete with license number and full company information. If this is provided, then the responsibility and liability for the system is now the contractor’s. If they are not willing to provide a written declaration, you could probably take that to indicate they aren’t confident in its safe operation either.

How wrong is wrong?

There is also “okay” and “the way it should be.” Ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs) are a good example. They were not required in kitchens until 1987, but we always recommend them because they could save your life. We do see “time capsule” houses, with original kitchens and bathrooms, and the argument could be made that, since everything is original, and it was correct when built, we shouldn’t call out the lack of GFCIs as a defect. Swapping out a receptacle for a GFCI costs about $20; not having them where they could save someone’s life makes no sense, even if it is ‘okay.’

Get it in writing

There’s an old saying in the corporate world: “If it’s not in writing, it never happened.” Verbal assurances are worthless. Sometimes when confronted with a request to “please put that in writing on your letterhead for me,” contractors will backpedal and come back with, “Well…you know, the inspector is technically right; that probably should be fixed.”

If you do get the written assurance, it should go in your files along with other important house documents so you can show it to future buyers, or in case the issue in question does cause a problem down the road.

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Posted in Common Sense, Home Safety, Inspection Tales | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Last week I did an inspection of a vacant house in one of the more rural parts of our service area. In doing the initial walk-around of the exterior, I noticed the outlet for the sump pump.

Sump Outlet

It appeared to be leading to a buried pipe (which wasn’t in great shape), so I couldn’t tell how far out the water was going, but at least it wasn’t being dumped right next the foundation (which I see far too often).

So far, so good. Then I get to the door to the back deck.

Condensation

Hmm, why is there condensation on the inside of the glass? Well, maybe the heat is turned up high inside, but I wouldn’t expect that in a vacant house.

I went into the house and started my walk-through, in which I briefly go through the entire house to figure out where things are and what equipment I’ll be needing. When I got to the basement, this is what I found.

Flooded Basement

Several inches of standing water throughout the basement, with extension cords and other wires totally immersed.

Flooded Basement

Standing water meant I wasn’t about to go to that electrical panel and see if the power was on, even if all the outlets I checked upstairs weren’t live. There was power to the meter, which meant there could possibly be power to the basement and all those wires hanging in the water.

Flooded Basement

More equipment threatened by the flood waters. This stuff looked pretty new, too, and it was all carefully raised off the floor. I don’t usually see this type of equipment raised off a floor… unless the owner suspects there may be problems.

Why was this basement flooded?

Flooded Basement

See the vertical pipe in the corner? It’s leading from the sump crock to the outlet outside. It was obviously not functioning as designed.

I called the listing agent to let her know about the flooded basement, and she told me that the sellers knew the sump pump was broken and were going to fix it. But there was just a little water, she said. Unfortunately, the last time she had visited the property was about a week prior to my inspection. It really does not take long for water to do damage if the control systems aren’t working right.

This could have been prevented.

A functioning sump pump is essential, especially in areas with a high water table (as this property is). Sump pumps have a serviceable life of as little as 5 years if they are in near-constant use; for houses with just a little bit of water in the crock every now and then they can last as long as 12 years or so. But with this kind of equipment it’s important not to wait until they fail, because failure can mean destruction of other systems of the home, not to mention personal property.

If you know your sump pump is operating frequently, you should definitely have a battery backup pump for power outages. In cases like the house I inspected, where the water table is high and the sump pump is absolutely necessary to avoid a flooded basement, it is also a good idea to have a backup generator available to keep it running. If the house is often empty (it’s either a second home, or the occupant travels frequently), a generator that automatically starts when the power is lost would be ideal. I would also recommend having a spare sump pump handy, in case the pump decides to fail at 3:00 a.m. on a Sunday morning.

It’s important to keep the sump crock free of debris that could clog the pump. Also, keep it accessible! You don’t want to have to move heavy furniture or boxes of belongings when you have a problem and need to get to the pump quickly.

Want to know more about how we inspect basements, or about home inspections in general? Just give us a call!

 

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Posted in Bad Things, Inspection Tales, Maintenance | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

The term is simple enough: it’s something that blocks vapor. But all too often we don’t see it installed properly, or at all.

Why do you need a Vapor Barrier?

Many things affect the humidity level in a house. But did you know that the occupants themselves are a major source of moisture? A person can generate an average of about five pounds of moisture just through breathing and perspiration. The National Institute of Science and Technology estimates that the typical family of four produces two to three gallons of water vapor a day! That moisture is suspended in the air and can damage the surfaces and structure of the home, unless it is controlled through the proper use of vapor barriers.

Vapor Barriers keep moisture from damaging the structure

Air Barrier vs. Vapor Barrier

In new construction, you’ll often see a house wrapped in something that looks like paper, just before the siding is installed. This is an air barrier, and is designed to prevent air leaks that can make a house feel drafty. The vapor barrier is installed on the inside of the wall, just under the drywall layer.

Some insulation batts have a vapor barrier on one side; this side should always be facing the “warm side.” Although Maryland has a temperate climate, and houses here use cooling more than heating, we are still considered to be primarily a “heating” climate, which means the interior of the home is usually warmer than the outside air (the annual average temperature is 55.1 degrees Fahrenheit). During the winter, many houses also add extra humidity to the air with central humidifier systems, so there is even more moisture to with, while in summer, dehumidifiers kick in to remove the excess humidity. In places like Arizona, which is primarily a “cooling” climate, a vapor barrier would be installed on the outside of the wall.

The main function of the vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from entering the wall cavity, condensing, and causing damage to the structure. If it is installed incorrectly, it can trap moisture in the walls, making them a breeding ground for mold and mildew.

Proper Installation is Key

We’ll often go into crawl spaces and see insulation carefully installed in the spaces between the first floor joists, with the paper covering facing the crawl space. This is incorrect! The paper covering acts as the vapor barrier and must be installed against the floor, so it is facing the “warm” side. This is especially important in crawl spaces, as a crawl space with a dirt floor can contribute several gallons per day of moisture to the house environment!

During a home inspection, we will look for signs of vapor barriers. If they are installed correctly, they can be difficult to see!

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Posted in Inspection Terms | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Yesterday I did an inspection of a house built in 2001. It was a short sale and had been sitting vacant for at least six months and maybe as long as a year. I started the inspection by examining the exterior of the house, and when I got to the side I spotted this:

Not a welcome site on any home.

I suspected that these could be termite tubes; something you don’t want to see on any house. My client had not ordered a termite inspection, so I recommended that he call for one ASAP. Luckily, the company he called could send someone while I was still on site doing my inspection, so I would be able to have my suspicions confirmed.

The house had an on-grade basement entry in the back, and this is what I saw inside the basement door:

Frass from some unknown infestation

Really not good. This appears to be a pile of frass, which is the waste left by wood-destroying insects. And this was on the rear of the house, adjacent to the side with the suspected termite tubes.

Again, I would leave it to the experts to determine exactly what this was. In the meantime, I continued inspecting the basement.

What could this stuff on the ceiling be?

The ceiling in the area below the front door had staining that would be consistent with water intrusion, and then there was this line of odd bumps hanging down. Upon closer inspection…

Stalagtites? Inside?

Stalactites? Indoors? No… Termite tubes.

The termite inspector arrived an hour later and confirmed my findings. The conclusion is that the termites had chewed their way along the joist, and when they encountered the drywall, they just kept going, building their normal tubes as they went.

Because termites are not active during cold weather, there were no live termites to be found. But this property will need extensive destructive investigation to determine the extent of the infestation. This means removing drywall, insulation and any other covering materials to expose the damaged wood and tubes, and to keep removing material until the limit of the infestation can be determined. In the case of severe infestation, this could involve ripping out much of the drywall in a home. Once the affected area is identified, remediation and repair can begin to ensure that the infestation is properly removed and the damaged structural members reinforced.

 

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Most Home Inspectors don’t include a permit check in their inspection preparation. However, we like to get as much background information about a property as possible prior to starting a home inspection. In most of our service area, we are able to check the public records to see whether permits were obtained, and what their status is, and will include this information in our report.

Permits are, in essence, “Permission to build/Continue a project.” Having a permit means that someone from the Authority having Jurisdiction (AHJ), usually a county planning board, has looked at the plans and determined that what you are having done is appropriate, safe and correct and that what has been done is what you said was going to be done. Typically the cost for a permit for a small project is minimal: a few hundred dollars at most.

The risk of NOT getting a permit is two-fold. If the AHJ catches you during construction without a permit, they can issue a stop work order AND make you remove all of the work already done and start over with permits. The Contractor will lose their license (if they had one), be subject to a fine and be barred from doing work in the area again. Once the work is completed, the homeowner is almost in the clear…almost. If there is a problem with unpermitted work, their homeowners insurance carrier may not cover that work. For example, if the property has an unpermitted kitchen upgrade, and the wiring in that kitchen causes a fire, the insurance company could deny the claim on the grounds that the work was done without a permit. And when they go to SELL the property, an inspector MAY flag the unpermitted work. There is no such thing as an “as-built” (after the fact) permit in most localities, unless you open up the walls/floors and can SHOW the inspector the work has been completed properly.

If you are doing any new electrical work (such as adding a new circuit), new plumbing work (such adding a sink or bathroom not already roughed in) or any structural work (adding a window or an addition), you will need permits. When in doubt, contact your county permit office and ask. And if you are having such work done and the contractor doesn’t want to pull permits, find another contractor!

 

 

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Posted in Home Safety, Maintenance | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment