What could possibly be lurking beneath this beautifully renovated kitchen?

Let’s start at the bottom: the foundation. If a house’s foundation is not happy, the entire house will be unhappy and have problems.  The foundation needs to be dry and stable. No undercutting or digging near the footings. Improper materials such a tree trunks that were used to support parts of the house need to have been replaced with more suitable materials. Insulation should be correctly installed so that the house is kept warm from the bottom up (Incorrectly installed insulation is a breeding ground for all sorts of pests and can accelerate damage while at the same time hiding it).

Plumbing pipes need to be examined and replaced as many of the old materials are well past their useful lives and will react poorly if connected to newer materials without special precautions.

Electrical systems need to be updated and brought up to modern safety standards.  An older 60A-2wire system is not going to be able to support a modern kitchen, laundry and Heat Pump and if incorrectly “updated” can hide potentially deadly shock hazards.

Older heating systems are MUCH less efficient that modern ones, and although they may continue to WORK for many years, they will hurt you a little bit every month.  Modern fuel burning appliances are now routinely 90+% efficient; old systems were barely 70% when new and in top form.  AC units went from a SEER (efficiency rating) of 8 to over 20 — a possible reduction of 75% in electrical usage.

Lastly, all existing ongoing damage needs to be addressed.  I have seen a new, state of the art, triple pane, argon filled, low-E window installed into a window opening where I could poke my finger into the cavity of the house through the rotten wood the windows was installed into.

My clients have often been quite surprised to find that their beautifully restored house needs tens of thousands of dollars in repairs to the INFRASTRUCTURE of the house to stop the ongoing damage, stabilize the house, and make it safe for modern living.  The previous owners had spent all their money on making it look good, but next to nothing on its foundation, plumbing, heating, or electrical system.

The foundation under that kitchen was in need of repairs.

Recently I inspected a house whose interior was beautifully renovated. However, the basement told a different story. The original foundation was stone and timber (yes, actual tree trunk sections were supporting the house. After more than 100 years, they were deteriorating). Over the years, repairs and additions were made with brick, then with concrete block, and finally, poured concrete. The original foundation pieces were still there. In Home Inspection training we are taught that there are five foundation materials: wood, stone, brick, concrete block, and poured concrete. This is the first time I have seen all five materials in one property!

Infrastructure repairs can be expensive, and many people are reluctant to spend money on things that don’t “show.” But neglecting infrastructure could mean that the new kitchen you just spent a pretty penny on could be in jeopardy.

The wall was the same temperature as the air (74 degrees), while the face of the outlet was more than 40 degrees hotter (117 degrees)! As this was an immediate fire hazard, Bob spoke with the current occupant and explained the issue, stressing that this was a situation that needed to be examined by a licensed electrician ASAP. Bob suspected that the outlet used a “back-stab” type of wire connection, which is prone to loosening wires.

For comparison, a normal outlet (same house, same room) is almost invisible thermally, as it should be the same temperature as the surrounding wall.

They're coming out of the walls!!!

Good luck figuring out what goes to what, and where.

Now that's a clog.

This one is overdue for a cleaning, don’t you think? (P.S. it’s also a fire hazard)

Your Foundation is Showing!

As a result of the exposure, the foundation is cracking. See the dark line at the base of the foundation wall? That’s the gap under the footing. The entire side of the house is starting to sink down, and will likely require a very expensive repair job to restore the foundation.

Moral of the story: Finish what you start… Or, if you can’t, at least make sure you aren’t risking the structural integrity of the house!

Where's the connection?

The junction is now enveloped by the beginnings of a wasp nest. Let’s just say that it’s not an approved electrical insulator, and back away slowly.

Was this how the Grand Canyon started?

This homeowner needs to at least put a splash block under the sump outlet, and would also benefit from a battery backup for the pump.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

With few of today’s modern conveniences, a house could easily get by with only 50-60 Amps of electrical service, and even today this level of service does not pose a problem, as long as electrical devices are kept to a minimum. However, when homeowners with such basic service start adding modern appliances, they quickly run out of electrical capacity, which can result in local brownouts, blown breakers or fuses, or overheating of wires and a possible fire hazard.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

Computers don’t take much, but they don’t like brownouts or flickers in power. For any type of computer or computerized appliance, it’s a good idea to use surge suppressors and uninterruptible power supplies to prevent damage. This includes computerized sewing machines, exercise equipment, TVs, digital video recorders, and cable boxes.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

Another consideration when with older homes is that many of the wires coming from the poles to the house, and then down the house to the meter, are 40-50 years old and are now frayed. Often the wire wrapped around the central conductors is now showing through. Contrary to common belief, that is not a ground, but a current-carrying conductor, often carrying substantial current. Although wrapping with tape is acceptable by some, most electricians agree that frayed Service Entrance (SE) cables should be replaced for safety. At a minimum, that wire needs to be replaced so that it is safe and it is a good opportunity to UPGRADE the entire service to a more modern 150-200A service. Most municipalities won’t install less than 125-150A, and most times 200A service is the same price as the lower, so 200A is installed. Even Townhouses and condominiums now are provided with 125-150A service per unit.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

Some all-electric homes, or homes with lots and lots of circuits, may even need a larger service (400A) because of the requirement for no more than 42 circuits per panel, and 150-200A per panel.  With the new rules, the number of circuits per panel is being relaxed, but homes with multiple air conditioners, water heaters, second kitchens, clothes dryers, guest quarters and other large users of electricity may still need the larger electrical service.

Modern Life Consumes Electricity

Here are typical amperage requirements for some common household appliances.

Electric Range:  40A

Wall Oven: 40A

Modern Electric Clothes Dyer: 30A (min.)

Air Conditioner, outside unit: 25A (min.)

Air Conditioner, inside unit: 15A

Microwave: 12A

Toaster: 12A

Hair Dryer: 12A

Dishwasher: 15A

To calculate how many amps an appliance needs, divide the wattage by 120 (normal household voltage). For example, a microwave oven that uses 1800 watts needs a 15 amp circuit. (Amps = Watts/Volts)

Safety Note

The service entry cable should always be protected from the elements, and from the possibility of abrasion or fraying. Soil settling around the foundation of a house can pull the cable conduit away from the meter box, with potentially disastrous consequences.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.