Where's the connection?

The junction is now enveloped by the beginnings of a wasp nest. Let’s just say that it’s not an approved electrical insulator, and back away slowly.

Was this how the Grand Canyon started?

This homeowner needs to at least put a splash block under the sump outlet, and would also benefit from a battery backup for the pump.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

With few of today’s modern conveniences, a house could easily get by with only 50-60 Amps of electrical service, and even today this level of service does not pose a problem, as long as electrical devices are kept to a minimum. However, when homeowners with such basic service start adding modern appliances, they quickly run out of electrical capacity, which can result in local brownouts, blown breakers or fuses, or overheating of wires and a possible fire hazard.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

Computers don’t take much, but they don’t like brownouts or flickers in power. For any type of computer or computerized appliance, it’s a good idea to use surge suppressors and uninterruptible power supplies to prevent damage. This includes computerized sewing machines, exercise equipment, TVs, digital video recorders, and cable boxes.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

Another consideration when with older homes is that many of the wires coming from the poles to the house, and then down the house to the meter, are 40-50 years old and are now frayed. Often the wire wrapped around the central conductors is now showing through. Contrary to common belief, that is not a ground, but a current-carrying conductor, often carrying substantial current. Although wrapping with tape is acceptable by some, most electricians agree that frayed Service Entrance (SE) cables should be replaced for safety. At a minimum, that wire needs to be replaced so that it is safe and it is a good opportunity to UPGRADE the entire service to a more modern 150-200A service. Most municipalities won’t install less than 125-150A, and most times 200A service is the same price as the lower, so 200A is installed. Even Townhouses and condominiums now are provided with 125-150A service per unit.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

Some all-electric homes, or homes with lots and lots of circuits, may even need a larger service (400A) because of the requirement for no more than 42 circuits per panel, and 150-200A per panel.  With the new rules, the number of circuits per panel is being relaxed, but homes with multiple air conditioners, water heaters, second kitchens, clothes dryers, guest quarters and other large users of electricity may still need the larger electrical service.

Modern Life Consumes Electricity

Here are typical amperage requirements for some common household appliances.

Electric Range:  40A

Wall Oven: 40A

Modern Electric Clothes Dyer: 30A (min.)

Air Conditioner, outside unit: 25A (min.)

Air Conditioner, inside unit: 15A

Microwave: 12A

Toaster: 12A

Hair Dryer: 12A

Dishwasher: 15A

To calculate how many amps an appliance needs, divide the wattage by 120 (normal household voltage). For example, a microwave oven that uses 1800 watts needs a 15 amp circuit. (Amps = Watts/Volts)

Safety Note

The service entry cable should always be protected from the elements, and from the possibility of abrasion or fraying. Soil settling around the foundation of a house can pull the cable conduit away from the meter box, with potentially disastrous consequences.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.

Water

This gutter is obviously not helping direct water away from the house.

A large percentage of home problems are related to water going where it shouldn’t. Start outside, looking at the house. What does the roof look like, and how old is it? What do the gutters, downspouts and splash blocks look like and where does the water go when it reaches the ground?  Any erosion, moss, stains or other ‘clues’ evident?
Once inside, check for stains on ceilings or walls on the top floor (possible signs of a leaky roof).  Are there any stains or patches underneath bathrooms on the other floors? What does it look like underneath the sinks? When you go into the basement, are there any odors, dampness, rust stains or discolored cardboard boxes on the floor? Does the furnace have any rust stains?

Gas

Evidence of a previous gas fire. Amazingly, a prior Inspector failed to spot this during his inspection.

Gas is easy: everything should work and there should be NO ODOR!  If you smell gas
when walking into a home, walk right back out. You might get a brief whiff if you are standing next to a stove or fireplace as it starts to light, but NEVER when first entering a home or even a room.  If you smell gas and you are not standing close to the appliance, there is a dangerous problem. Leave the house immediately and call 911.

Electricity

An outlet with scorch marks can be a red flag for potential electrical system issues.

Repeat after me: “Extension cords, wire nuts and black tape are generally BAD” A $7 electrical outlet tester will tell you a LOT. Is the outlet working? Is it loose in the wall? Does it hold an inserted plug firmly? Has it been painted over? Do all the right lights light up?
Older houses may have a mix of two-wire (ungrounded) and three-wire (grounded) outlets. If it seems like there is a random distribution of grounded and ungrounded outlets, the grounded outlets may not actually be grounded to anything, which constitutes a safety hazard.
A quick look at the electrical panels may also tell some stories.  Fuses are not necessarily a red flag; they are just old and obsolete, and you could be looking at (expensive) upgrades to bring them up to current standards. Rusted panels, or Federal Pacific, Zinsco and Bulldog Pushmatic panels all need to be replaced as they are documented safety hazards, and this is an expensive repair. Messy wiring with lots of loose wires everywhere probably needs some TLC from an electrician.

Heating and Cooling

This furnace had not been maintained and was crusted with layers of dust and corrosion.

It should be working and be REASONABLY current. System efficiencies have gone up a LOT in the last few years, so a 17 year old system will cost you extra each month until you replace it.  Any system more than 17 years old is a candidate for replacement; between 10 and 17 years old and you might want to consider upgrading if you’re planning on staying in the house for five or more years. A system between five and 10 years old just needs to be maintained, and anything under five years old is nice to see.
HOWEVER!!!  If the fuel bills are reasonable, then replacing a SAFE and WORKING 20 year old furnace with a new $9,000 one doesn’t make sense as the payback is probably longer than you will be in the house. Then again, I don’t see many 20-year-old furnaces that are safe, efficient, and in good working condition.

Windows and Doors

Even a tiny gap like the one in this door can add up to huge increases in your heating and cooling bill.

If they work and are draft-free, don’t even think about replacing them. If they have storm windows, all the better. An old TIGHT window is much better and will last much longer than a new, poorly installed, cheap, smaller new vinyl replacement window (not that I’m opinionated at all). DRAFTS are what it is all about, rather than the ‘R’ or ‘U’ factor of the window. A small draft will totally wipe out any savings from a super-duper argon filled low-E triple pane custom vinyl window. Sealing or tightening existing windows is far more cost effective in most cases (Psst… Energy auditors are supposed to tell you about DIY opportunities FIRST before mentioning any upgrades or replacements…I’ve been through the training!).  And if you can see daylight around any outside doors, uhh…no. Weather stripping is MUCH cheaper than a replacement door.

I’ve just shared some secrets with you. If I get to an inspection site before the client does, these are the things I will look at while I am finishing my coffee. I haven’t started the inspection yet, but this “First Pass” has told me where I need to spend more (or less) of my time and given me clues as to what issues I should be looking for.

Who needs privacy?

It was fully connected, and was being used. There’s no law that says a bathroom has to be enclosed.

What are these sensors looking for?

Of course, the sensors will only work properly if they are actually installed where they’re supposed to be, and not up on the mounting bracket of the opener itself.

Upside-Down Trap

There is an old saying about the two rules of plumbing:

Rule Number One: Water flows downhill.

Rule Number Two: It’s not always just water.