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Archive for the ‘Common Sense’ Category

Sorry, We Can’t Make It

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010 by welmoed

In order for us to do Home Inspections, it is first necessary for us to find our driveway.

Somewhere under all that snow is a driveway.

Somewhere under all that snow is a driveway.

We got 22 inches of snow over the weekend, and are now poised to get another foot on top of that. The local, state and federal governments have ground to a halt; roads are impassable, and everyone is urged to stay home.

Many of our clients with Home Inspection contingencies written into their contracts are asking for, and receiving, extensions on those contracts. If you are facing a contingency deadline, contact your agent and ask for an extension.

Safety is our main concern when scheduling inspections during weather emergencies. Therefore, we have postponed all inspections until next week.

Attics and Access

Monday, November 2nd, 2009 by Inspector Bob

Most new homes don’t have traditional attics, but rather “attic crawl spaces”. These spaces aren’t really intended for regular use, or even for storage, but rather as utility spaces for air handlers, ductwork, wiring and ventilation. Often the roof trusses prevent a person from being able to stand up straight, further limiting the usability of the space.

This is not storage space.

This is not storage space.

Because these spaces aren’t meant to be accessed frequently, it’s often difficult or inconvenient to reach them. If there are no utilities or systems installed in the attic space, such as air handlers, the access is usually limited to a simple framed hatch in the ceiling, requiring the owner to set up a ladder to get into the attic. These hatches can sometimes be tricky to spot: they are commonly tucked into closets.

If there is equipment in the attic, there may be a pull-down staircase specifically designed for attic access (but not always; I’ve inspected a house that had an air handler in the attic, with absolutely no access to the space at all!).

Access stairs need to reach the floor.

Access stairs need to reach the floor.

Spliced Legs

The stairs were just a little too short, so they "fixed" them.

These stairs come in many different forms, and new styles are constantly being introduced. But they all have something in common: they need to be installed correctly.

Read Label: Install Incorrectly Anyway

Instructions weren't missed... Just disregarded.

Instructions weren't missed... Just disregarded.

I have lost count of the number of attic stair units I have seen which are installed incorrectly (to the point of being unsafe to use), even though the installation instructions are clearly marked on the unit itself. Traditional wooden units are designed to be securely nailed  (with 16d nails or ½” lag bolts) into the attic joists, yet I still see many, many instances where drywall screws or even finishing nails are used. Whenever I encounter a stair unit screwed in rather than nailed, I warn my client to stay clear while I go up them, because if I hear the slightest creak I will be heading back down VERY fast.

Because It’s There

It can be tempting to view the vast open spaces of today’s truss roof as the perfect storage spot. After all, our grandparents stored their stuff in attics for years. But keep in mind that much of what they stored was natural material: cotton, wool, linen and the like. Today’s synthetics simply cannot withstand the same temperature fluctuations, and could deteriorate very quickly. Also, compressing the insulation will greatly diminish its effectiveness, costing you money in heating and cooling.

A Quick Hint

Keep the landing spot clear.

Keep the landing spot clear.

If your pull-down stairs are located in the garage, one common problem is having things in the way when you want to pull the stairs down. To help prevent this, mark out an area around the spot where the stairs meet the floor, and keep that area clear.

Help! My House Will Be Inspected!

Monday, October 19th, 2009 by Inspector Bob

writinginspection

Often times I have to “disclaim” items on the inspection report because I cannot get to them, or they are not in inspectable condition. If your home is under contract and you are expecting the buyer’s home inspector, here are some simple things you can do to be ready.

Make sure key components are accessible. These include all doors and windows, attic access, HVAC system, water heater, and all electrical panels.

Access does not just mean “I can see it.” I need to be able to touch, operate and possibly open things. I need to be able to REMOVE the cover to the electrical panel, not just open the door, so any framing that blocks the cover screws needs to be removed. If you have caulked or painted the frame of the electric panel, please pre-score around the edge with a sharp blade; otherwise removing the panel cover may mar the wall. If the attic access pull-down stairs are in the attic, move any obstacles (cars, boxes, tools) beneath the access.

Provide keys to all doors and windows. Windows that are locked or bolted shut will be noted as “inoperable” and possibly as a safety hazard if they are an egress opening.

Pull out your receipts and records. If you have service records for the heating/cooling system, put them out for inspection. ALL manufacturers call for at least annual service, and if there is no evidence of it I will call for it to be done, possibly AGAIN if you don’t have (readable) receipts.

Show that work was done right. All improvement work needs to be done by licensed and bonded contractors or authorized companies, and receipts need to be on readable printed company letterhead.

Take advantage of the dishwasher test. If you want, you may leave the dishwasher ready to run. Put the dirty dishes and soap in the unit with a note of which cycle to run it on; otherwise I will run a “quick” cycle.

Check your wiring. Extension cords are generally frowned upon, as are ground adapters and light socket adapters. Make sure there are no exposed wire nuts.

Try all the lights. Replace any burned out bulbs, especially on single-bulb fixtures. Otherwise I might call out the fixture as inoperable, and you can replace bulbs much cheaper than an electrician can.

Check your house before the inspection. Run appliances. Flush toilets, run sinks, baths and showers. Check to make sure all the windows and doors open. Fix the minor problems BEFORE the inspection. You may be able to fix minor issues yourself; if I have to write them down I will call for them to be fixed by an authorized, certified manufacturer’s representative or licensed contractor, which will mean a MUCH more expensive repair. If you have things you know need repairing, do them BEFORE I get there.

If you have any other questions on getting ready for a home inspection, or any other aspect of home inspections, feel free to give us a call at (301) 208-8289, or email bob@inspectionsbybob.com

College Dorm Safety Checklist

Monday, August 31st, 2009 by Inspector Bob

Moving your child into a college dorm can be a hectic time. In between the clutter and chaos, it can be too easy to overlook possible safety hazards. Most colleges are vigilant about safety, but it is always smart to check for yourself that you are leaving your child in a safe environment. Dorms have to comply with different regulations than privately-owned residences, and standards can also vary state by state. Here are some general guidelines for what I looked for when we brought our daughter to college this year.

Egress

A small dorm room

A small dorm room

Any room used as sleeping quarters must have a window large enough for not only the occupants to escape, but also for a fully-outfitted firefighter to get in. Make sure there is no furniture blocking the window.

Smoke Detectors

Every room should have one of these.

Every room should have one of these.

Every room should have a functioning smoke detector. There should be either a steady “ready” light, or one that blinks occasionally. We do NOT recommend testing the alarm on your own, as it will likely be connected to a central monitoring station, and testing an individual unit would probably bring the fire department running.

Sprinklers

Most newer dorms have sprinkler systems.

Most newer dorms have sprinkler systems.

Most new or renovated dorms will have automatic sprinkler systems. Older buildings may not yet be retrofitted.

Pull Stations and Fire Extinguishers

Pull stations should be easily accessible.

Pull stations should be easily accessible.

These should be located in easily-accessible areas throughout the building. You should be able to see one from every dorm door.

Fire-Rated Doors and Fire Exits

Dorm rooms should have self-closing doors that are rated to withstand fire damage longer than normal residential doors. Exterior fire exit doors should be clearly-marked, with illuminated signs leading to them. Hallways leading to fire doors should be kept clear of clutter. Make sure your child knows the location of every emergency exit; he or she should also know how many doors are between their room and any exit, since hallways can be shrouded with smoke during a fire.

Electrical Safety

Outlets in the dorm room should be tightly secured, so plugs stay firmly in place during use. Loose or wobby outlets should be reported immediately.

Bathrooms

These outlets can save lives.

These outlets can save lives.

Anywhere you have water and electricity in close proximity, all outlets should be protected by Ground Fault Circuit Interruption (GFCI). These special outlets are identified by either a “Test-Reset” button on the outlet, or a label.

Hot Water

Bring along an instant-read thermometer and test the temperature of the hot water. It should be 120 degrees or less. Anything higher than that is a burn hazard. If you don’t have a thermometer handy, you can get a rough idea by turning on the hot water and testing it with your hand: if you say “ouch” before ten seconds are up, it’s too hot.

Security

Exterior doors should be self-closing and self-locking. Access should be allowed only by code, key or key card.

What About Off-Campus Housing?

It is common for older students to move from a dorm to an apartment off-campus. A well-run apartment building will have most, if not all, of the safety features listed above. However, the temptation to save money may lead the student to seek a cheap alternative, such as a basement room in a shared house. Such rentals can be risky, especially with regards to fire safety. I have seen illegal basement apartments where the bedrooms are windowless, and the only egress was through a galley kitchen.

Some Last Advice

The best thing you can do for your child is to teach them to be aware of their surroundings. My daughter knows to look for smoke detectors anywhere she plans to sleep, and knows why egress windows are important. She knows that her college has “safety stations” throughout the campus, which she can use to summon help. She also knows that she is responsible for her own safety now, and we have given her the knowledge to do just that.

Dorm room all set up... Time for college to begin!

Dorm room all set up... Time for college to begin!

Realtors: Your First Line of Defense

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009 by Inspector Bob

Realtors are a Home Buyer’s first line of defense and should be knowledgeable enough to spot several warning signs that an inspection may not go well. They will usually see the house with their client before any home inspection is performed, and should be able to spot some of the major issues during your first walkthrough.

You shouldn't smell anything.

You shouldn't smell anything.

1. The Smell of Natural Gas

The gas company will tell you there is no such thing as a “Small” gas leak. It is either leaking or it’s not. Getting a whiff of gas standing next to the stove as it starts is one thing, but if you open the front door, or the basement door, and smell gas, there is a problem. DON’T GO IN! It isn’t worth the risk to you and your client. A spark from a light switch, a ringing phone or even your cell phone could cause an, uhm, incident, that could really ruin your day. I carry a gas sniffer but if it goes off at the front door, we are done until the Gas Company gives the all-clear.

Deck rails should be firmly attached.

Deck rails should be firmly attached.

2. Loose deck railings, missing flashing

If you grasp a deck railing and pull/push it should not move. If you can move it then it may not be strong enough to stop a tripping adult or several adults leaning on it.  Additionally if the underside of the deck is visible, the board that is bolted to the house should have a bolt every 16” (at a minimum) and should have flashing –visible-  at the top of it. Railing pickets fastened on the outside with nails are another no-no as they pull out too easily.

Too much clutter means I can't see issues.

Too much clutter means I can't see issues.

3. Too much stuff in the house

I need to be able to get to things to inspect them. I need access to doors, walls, windows, outlets, switches, closets, the electrical panel, the water heater, the furnace and the attic, not to mention everything else. If the house is really cluttered things WILL be hidden and I am not supposed to be moving lots of stuff for risk of damaging stuff or injury to me.

Persistent moisture and shade can lead to algae on siding.

Persistent moisture and shade can lead to algae on siding.

4. Green Algae or Moss on/near the foundation

These are indicators of a long term moisture presence. When I see these I will be looking not only for the source of the moisture, but indicators of possible moisture intrusion or damage inside the house as well. Rust stains or water marks on items in the basement are also indicators.

loosetoilet

5. Toilets that wobble

Loose toilets are the #1 cause of townhouse ceiling damage. Loose toilets can also cause floor damage and other problems. To test a toilet’s stability, I don’t use my hands but straddle the toilet with my legs and GENTLY try to rock the toilet with my knees. It should not move. If it moves a little bit, it needs tightening. If it moves easily I recommend pulling, replacing the wax ring, and replacing the toilet.

These aren't meant to be seen.

These aren't meant to be seen.

6. Electrical wire nuts

You should never see wirenuts with the occasional exception of small wirenuts next to the furnace on the thermostat wires. Wire nuts on any other wires should be inside sealed electrical boxes and thus out of sight. Open electrical boxes, missing covers on switches and receptacles, and scorch marks on receptacles are all bad signs as well.

A dirty return means the furnace has to work harder.

A dirty return means the furnace has to work harder.

7. Stains or ‘soot’ marks around registers

These can be an indicator of a cracked heat exchanger in Oil or Gas heated homes and are an imminent danger indicator (carbon Monoxide).  In a heat-pump home they are an indicator that the filter has probably not been changed frequently enough and the system will be working too hard and using up too much energy coping with the dust.

critterdamage

8. Unwelcome Guests

Mud tubes/tracks on anything anywhere in the basement or on foundation walls, or “sawdust” mixed with black specks in damp places in the basement, can be indicators of wood destroying organisms at work.

A sure sign the gutters haven't been cleaned lately.

A sure sign the gutters haven't been cleaned lately.

9. Stuff growing in gutters

Improperly maintained gutter systems are probably the top cause of basement dampness and foundation problems and can cause soffit and fascia damage as well.

Stairs to nowhere at the Winchester House in California

Stairs to nowhere at the Winchester House in San Jose, California

10. Something that seems out of place

Many realtors have been in business far longer than I have. You know what is “normal” and what is out of place. You may not know exactly what is wrong, or what something is, but you know that it is not normal. Trust your instincts and point it out to your client or me. It may just be something you haven’t seen before, or it may be an issue.

Got a neat picture of something you would like to know what it is or a question about what is “Normal”?  You can always call us or email us for a FREE response.

Things I cannot tell you

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009 by Inspector Bob

contractor

“Can you tell me what it costs to repair…”

Normally, no, because every repair is different and costs change constantly.

Yes, there are industry “standards” as to what it should cost to repair XYZ, but those are very generic, and don’t take into account the specific issues about your house. For example, try Googling “fix loose toilet cost.” You’ll get much more information than you want.

The other reason I don’t give price estimates is it is far too dangerous to “guess” at a price. In this economy, the prices available for anything can go from very low (a hungry independednt) to wildly high (a boutique chain franchise) for just about anything…  If I am too low on my price guessitmate, you’ll be very mad at me, and if my guesstimate is too high you’ll be mad at me as well. So, unless I KNOW the price because I have had the exact same work done on my own home recently, I can’t help with pricing.

“Can you recommend a…”

I have a very, very short list of contractors that I will tell you work on my home.  Note I did not say recommend, as I don’t want to recommend any one firm. A company that does great work on an old house might not be the best choice for repairs at a new house. Also, everyone has a bad day, or employee turnover, and if you have an “issue” with a contractor I might have recommended it will come back to me, one way or another.

One service I can recommend without question is Angies List. They are geared for customer service, not price, so be warned, the people on the list will not be the cheapest, but will be some of the best. For cheap, try Craigslist, but be careful: they are at the opposite end from Angie’s list, as it is an open listing and anyone can hang a shingle out and say they are a plumber, electrician, roofer etc.

“How can I pick a…”

There are a few simple rules for choosing a company to work on your home.

  • Get three estimates. Before talking with any company, write down the scope of work so each bidder has the specifications in writing and you can compare apples to apples.
  • Ask for references, and check them. Ask the reference why they chose the particular company, and whether they would hire them again.
  • Make sure the company and its employees are licensed to perform the work. For example, the carpenter may do beautiful woodwork, but shouldn’t be doing the electrical wiring unless he is a licensed electrician.
  • Take your time choosing a contractor. Wait until you have all the written estimates in hand, then go over each of them to make your choice. If a contractor is pressuring you to approve a proposal immediately, that should be a red flag.

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