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Saturday Strangeness: You Shall Not Pass!

September 4th, 2010 by welmoed

No, you are NOT allowed to access the attic space over your garage. And to make sure you can’t, we’re going to install the brackets for the garage door opener right across it.

Nope. Not going there, even if you wanted to.

Nope. Not going there, even if you wanted to.

DIY Home Inspections: The Tale of the Toilet

September 2nd, 2010 by welmoed

A few weeks ago, we told you about how to save money by doing your own “First Pass” inspection before calling us for a full Home Inspection. So you might think you can save even more money by doing your own full home inspection once you have a contract. There are a lot of books available on do-it-yourself home inspections. Sure, it’s tempting to save a few hundred dollars by doing your own home inspection before plunking down a ton of money on a house; the closing process can feel like you’re constantly writing checks. Still, it’s worth it to take a few moments and think through the decision.

The DIY Home Inspection

Doing your own home inspections means looking everywhere -- and knowing what you're looking for.

Doing your own home inspections means looking everywhere -- and knowing what you're looking for.

There’s absolutely no law that says you have to get a home inspection. The only law (at least, in Maryland) is that if you do hire a home inspector, he or she needs to be licensed by the state, and a seller is not obligated to accept the findings of a non-licensed inspector. But to do one yourself, you don’t need any particular license or permit.

Let’s say you decide to do your own home inspection. First, you’ll probably want to buy a book on the topic so you feel educated on what you might find. Do a search on Amazon.com on “home inspection” and you’ll come up with 487 books to choose from. Which one of those is going to cover your particular need? We have links to some recommended books in our e-store. You’ll probably spend an hour choosing the right book, and then pay for it. That’s time taken away from your work, your family life, or your leisure time. When the book arrives, you have to read it. Set aside a few hours for that.

Now you’re going through the house, book in hand. You may want to even get  one of the check list books Bob uses for his inspections as a guide. You’ll be constantly flipping pages, checking to see if you missed anything. You might even see things that are perfectly normal and spend lots of time looking them up, only to find they are perfectly normal and acceptable (Home Inspectors call these items “serviceable”).

You finish your home inspection and show your findings to the seller. Chances are they will ask you, “Were these items flagged by a certified, licensed home inspector?” You’ll have to admit that they weren’t, and the seller might very well toss the entire list and refuse to fix any of the issues. Unless the inspection was performed by a certified, licensed professional, the seller is legally under no obligation to address any of the issues you may have found. You’re back to square one. Whats more, you could actually lose the opportunity to purchase the property, because you may have run out of time for the inspection contingency clause.

Consider the Humble Toilet

A normal toilet. Would you know how to inspect it?

A normal toilet. Would you know how to inspect it?

When you think of a toilet, how would you inspect it? Most likely, you will press down the handle and see that it flushes. You’ll probably notice if there’s a crack on the seat. You might lift the tank lid and peer inside, but that will likely be the extent of your inspection.

A Home Inspector sees a toilet differently. When Bob approaches the toilet, he will first note if there are any stains on the floor around the toilet. Then he will gently place his knees on either side of the seat and check to see if the toilet rocks. Why use his knees? That way he’s not touching the toilet with my hands.

Then he’ll lift the lid and look inside the tank. In many older toilets, he will often find bricks. This was a common method of saving water, but the bricks tend to deteriorate over time and damage the tank, the pipes and the connections within the toilet.

He’ll look to determine the type of flapper and fill valve is installed in the toilet. Did you know that some fill systems are outlawed as unsafe? Would you be able to recognize one? What about the fill pipe: is it going to the right place? Is it long enough, or too long?  What about the water level: is it too low (won’t flush right) or too high (wastes water or runs by itself)?

Discoloration on the interior of the tank can also tell an inspector about the condition of the pipes, so he’ll be looking at the stains on the inside of the tank. Then he’ll flush the toilet and observe how long it takes, and that all the components are working as they should. Then he’ll repeat all the same steps for every toilet in the house.

False Economy

A Home Inspection will probably cost between $375 and $800 (or more), depending upon the size of the house and its location. Trying to perform your own inspection will doubtless cost more in the long run, when you factor in the time you must expend researching and preparing. You may also need to buy a few tools to do the inspection. Have you really saved anything?

Sometimes Experts Don’t Know Best

Bob has had several long-time contractors (general, electrical, finish carpentry and plumbing) as clients. He has asked a few of them, “Since you have been contracting longer than I have been inspecting, why did you hire me?” The answer is always the same: ”I know my portion of the house really well, and will be looking over your shoulder when you look at it, but I don’t know about the rest of the house. Maybe I know how I would do it, which I know is NOT the right way.” In many case when Bob is going over the report with the client, they will say something like, “You know, I looked right at that and didn’t see it.” Or, “I didn’t know this house had one of those.”

One Thing We Never Hear

Sometimes when we quote a price for a home inspection to a client, we will hear, “Wow, that’s a lot of money! Other companies do cheaper inspections.” We don’t claim to be the cheapest, but we do strive to provide the best home inspections. It’s very satisfying that we have never once had a client turn to Bob after the inspection and say, “Well, that was a waste of money.”

Saturday Strangeness: Not a Good Connection

August 28th, 2010 by welmoed

These two wires were probably joined with a wire nut. However, it’s kind of hard to determine for sure.

Where's the connection?

Where's the connection?

The junction is now enveloped by the beginnings of a wasp nest. Let’s just say that it’s not an approved electrical insulator, and back away slowly.

Saturday Strangeness: Shower Simplicity

August 21st, 2010 by welmoed

It’s a shower head and faucet control, all in one! Too bad you don’t have a choice of spray patterns, though.

Note to plumber: This is not considered an indoor fixture.

Note to plumber: This is not considered an indoor fixture.

Saturday Strangeness: Visit Scenic Sump Canyon!

August 14th, 2010 by welmoed

You know your sump pump is working overtime when there is a growing gully spreading from the outlet pipe.

Was this how the Grand Canyon started?

Was this how the Grand Canyon started?

This homeowner needs to at least put a splash block under the sump outlet, and would also benefit from a battery backup for the pump.

Old Electrical Service: Time to Upgrade?

August 12th, 2010 by welmoed

Many houses built in the last century were constructed with minimal electrical service. When looking back to those times, there simply weren’t that many electrical devices in a home. Air conditioners weren’t readily available until after World War II, and in 1955 only 10 percent of U.S. households had electric clothes dryers. Hair dryers, toaster ovens, electric ranges, microwaves, electric water heaters and other such things were added over the years, greatly increasing electrical demands.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

With few of today’s modern conveniences, a house could easily get by with only 50-60 Amps of electrical service, and even today this level of service does not pose a problem, as long as electrical devices are kept to a minimum. However, when homeowners with such basic service start adding modern appliances, they quickly run out of electrical capacity, which can result in local brownouts, blown breakers or fuses, or overheating of wires and a possible fire hazard.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

Computers don’t take much, but they don’t like brownouts or flickers in power. For any type of computer or computerized appliance, it’s a good idea to use surge suppressors and uninterruptible power supplies to prevent damage. This includes computerized sewing machines, exercise equipment, TVs, digital video recorders, and cable boxes.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

Another consideration when with older homes is that many of the wires coming from the poles to the house, and then down the house to the meter, are 40-50 years old and are now frayed. Often the wire wrapped around the central conductors is now showing through. Contrary to common belief, that is not a ground, but a current-carrying conductor, often carrying substantial current. Although wrapping with tape is acceptable by some, most electricians agree that frayed Service Entrance (SE) cables should be replaced for safety. At a minimum, that wire needs to be replaced so that it is safe and it is a good opportunity to UPGRADE the entire service to a more modern 150-200A service. Most municipalities won’t install less than 125-150A, and most times 200A service is the same price as the lower, so 200A is installed. Even Townhouses and condominiums now are provided with 125-150A service per unit.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

Some all-electric homes, or homes with lots and lots of circuits, may even need a larger service (400A) because of the requirement for no more than 42 circuits per panel, and 150-200A per panel.  With the new rules, the number of circuits per panel is being relaxed, but homes with multiple air conditioners, water heaters, second kitchens, clothes dryers, guest quarters and other large users of electricity may still need the larger electrical service.

Modern Life Consumes Electricity

Here are typical amperage requirements for some common household appliances.

Electric Range:  40A

Wall Oven: 40A

Modern Electric Clothes Dyer: 30A (min.)

Air Conditioner, outside unit: 25A (min.)

Air Conditioner, inside unit: 15A

Microwave: 12A

Toaster: 12A

Hair Dryer: 12A

Dishwasher: 15A

To calculate how many amps an appliance needs, divide the wattage by 120 (normal household voltage). For example, a microwave oven that uses 1800 watts needs a 15 amp circuit. (Amps = Watts/Volts)

Safety Note

The service entry cable should always be protected from the elements, and from the possibility of abrasion or fraying. Soil settling around the foundation of a house can pull the cable conduit away from the meter box, with potentially disastrous consequences.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.

Think Your Garage is Safe?

August 9th, 2010 by welmoed

It can take a mere SIX SECONDS to break into a garage that has an automatic garage door opener:

The only thing that would slow such a thief down is to not have windows in your garage door. This would prevent them from seeing their target. If you do have windows, you can apply a decorative film that obscures the view inside without reducing the amount of light into the garage.

Saturday Strangeness: Have a Seat!

August 7th, 2010 by welmoed

I supposed it makes sense to get comfortable as you’re waiting your turn in the shower. Or, it’s the only quiet spot in the house to curl up with a good book.

Have a seat!

Have a seat!

Save Time and Money with a DIY “First Pass” Home Inspection

July 31st, 2010 by Inspector Bob

What Home Inspectors do is not rocket science. We are trained to look for defects in a methodical way and we have an extensive list of what we are looking for, but that doesn’t mean YOU, the buyer, can’t be looking for issues on your first, second and third visit to the property you will eventually have me inspect.  You could save yourself some money if you cross off a house before I even see it.

Water

This gutter is obviously not helping direct water away from the house.

This gutter is obviously not helping direct water away from the house.

A large percentage of home problems are related to water going where it shouldn’t. Start outside, looking at the house. What does the roof look like, and how old is it? What do the gutters, downspouts and splash blocks look like and where does the water go when it reaches the ground?  Any erosion, moss, stains or other ‘clues’ evident?
Once inside, check for stains on ceilings or walls on the top floor (possible signs of a leaky roof).  Are there any stains or patches underneath bathrooms on the other floors? What does it look like underneath the sinks? When you go into the basement, are there any odors, dampness, rust stains or discolored cardboard boxes on the floor? Does the furnace have any rust stains?

Gas

Evidence of a previous gas fire. Amazingly, a prior Inspector failed to spot this during his inspection.

Evidence of a previous gas fire. Amazingly, a prior Inspector failed to spot this during his inspection.

Gas is easy: everything should work and there should be NO ODOR!  If you smell gas
when walking into a home, walk right back out. You might get a brief whiff if you are standing next to a stove or fireplace as it starts to light, but NEVER when first entering a home or even a room.  If you smell gas and you are not standing close to the appliance, there is a dangerous problem. Leave the house immediately and call 911.

Electricity

An outlet with scorch marks can be a red flag for potential electrical system issues.

An outlet with scorch marks can be a red flag for potential electrical system issues.

Repeat after me: “Extension cords, wire nuts and black tape are generally BAD” A $7 electrical outlet tester will tell you a LOT. Is the outlet working? Is it loose in the wall? Does it hold an inserted plug firmly? Has it been painted over? Do all the right lights light up?
Older houses may have a mix of two-wire (ungrounded) and three-wire (grounded) outlets. If it seems like there is a random distribution of grounded and ungrounded outlets, the grounded outlets may not actually be grounded to anything, which constitutes a safety hazard.
A quick look at the electrical panels may also tell some stories.  Fuses are not necessarily a red flag; they are just old and obsolete, and you could be looking at (expensive) upgrades to bring them up to current standards. Rusted panels, or Federal Pacific, Zinsco and Bulldog Pushmatic panels all need to be replaced as they are documented safety hazards, and this is an expensive repair. Messy wiring with lots of loose wires everywhere probably needs some TLC from an electrician.

Heating and Cooling

This furnace had not been maintained and was crusted with layers of dust and corrosion.

This furnace had not been maintained and was crusted with layers of dust and corrosion.

It should be working and be REASONABLY current. System efficiencies have gone up a LOT in the last few years, so a 17 year old system will cost you extra each month until you replace it.  Any system more than 17 years old is a candidate for replacement; between 10 and 17 years old and you might want to consider upgrading if you’re planning on staying in the house for five or more years. A system between five and 10 years old just needs to be maintained, and anything under five years old is nice to see.
HOWEVER!!!  If the fuel bills are reasonable, then replacing a SAFE and WORKING 20 year old furnace with a new $9,000 one doesn’t make sense as the payback is probably longer than you will be in the house. Then again, I don’t see many 20-year-old furnaces that are safe, efficient, and in good working condition.

Windows and Doors

Even a tiny gap like the one in this door can add up to huge increases in your heating and cooling bill.

Even a tiny gap like the one in this door can add up to huge increases in your heating and cooling bill.

If they work and are draft-free, don’t even think about replacing them. If they have storm windows, all the better. An old TIGHT window is much better and will last much longer than a new, poorly installed, cheap, smaller new vinyl replacement window (not that I’m opinionated at all). DRAFTS are what it is all about, rather than the ‘R’ or ‘U’ factor of the window. A small draft will totally wipe out any savings from a super-duper argon filled low-E triple pane custom vinyl window. Sealing or tightening existing windows is far more cost effective in most cases (Psst… Energy auditors are supposed to tell you about DIY opportunities FIRST before mentioning any upgrades or replacements…I’ve been through the training!).  And if you can see daylight around any outside doors, uhh…no. Weather stripping is MUCH cheaper than a replacement door.

I’ve just shared some secrets with you. If I get to an inspection site before the client does, these are the things I will look at while I am finishing my coffee. I haven’t started the inspection yet, but this “First Pass” has told me where I need to spend more (or less) of my time and given me clues as to what issues I should be looking for.

Saturday Strangeness: No Peeking!

July 31st, 2010 by welmoed

This bathroom was just a bit… drafty.

Who needs privacy?

Who needs privacy?

It was fully connected, and was being used. There’s no law that says a bathroom has to be enclosed.


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