The workers who service these utility lines shouldn't be put in peril because of improperly installed generators.

One of the reasons that it takes longer than anyone would like to restore power is that the lineman doing that work have to constantly be on guard against stray power that can maim or kill. I realize that some know-it-all will say that they are supposed to take the steps to isolate each line segment they are working on and that is true. But when the lines are down in the street like plates of spilled spaghetti and poles have been turned into tooth picks it gets a little challenging to find places to ground those lines on both sides of the work. Add to that the twelve hour shifts worked for days on end and you have the makings of a young person’s funeral.

After one of our more serious summer storms I was doing damage assessment to check the accessibility of buildings in the Takoma Park Fire Station’s service area. I was flagged down by a utility crew that told me that there was power coming back out to their lines from an improperly connected generator. They explained that they were not allowed to talk to the home’s occupants themselves because the conversation might get ugly given that such depraved indifference to the safety of others for the sake of ones own convenience has killed dozens of lineman over the years. I donned my helmet and safety vest over my work uniform and started up the front walk just as a utility manager arrived in his sedan. Since the supervisors, who come in pickup trucks, were being so thinly spread managers were also getting into the effort. I turned back to let him handle it and got quite a surprise.

This gentleman was around the age when most in his industry would retire. I expected that he would have the meter pulled and then explain to the occupants that they were endangering the lineman and that their service would remain disconnected until the counties electrical inspector could verify that the makeshift generator connection had been cleared. Instead he opened the trunk of his car and pulled out a lovingly cared for set of all leather climbing gear. (Climbing gear of any recent manufacture would be predominantly synthetic materials.) He put his suit coat in the car and donned a pair of leather lineman’s boots that although in beautiful condition were obviously older than some of the linemen he was managing. He had a member of the crew that had been waiting for him pull the meter and install a blank with a locking meter ring to prevent the blanks removal. He walked up to one of the trucks and took out a large insulated wire cutter. He then donned his climbing gear and pole gaffs, climbed the pole, donned his insulated gloves, and cut all three of the wires that served that home so that the service drop wires fell into their front yard. He then ordered the other end of the drop removed from the home. (The wires between the pole and the strain relief bracket on the house belong to the utility. The wires from the eve down to the meter belong to the buildings owner.) He then went up to the door and talked to the occupants to inform them that their service would not be restored without an order from the county and why. I asked the foreman of the crew why the manager would cut the drop personally and the foreman said that it was the managers way of taking complete responsibility for the removal of the service drop from the home.

Let me assure you that a service drop that is removed to render lines safe from a generator back feed is the very last thing that gets replaced after a wide spread power outage. With the threat of sudden death removed, work to restore power to hundreds of homes could then resume. When I got home to my own darkened house after my shift with the Volunteer Fire Department had ended I read in the paper that a lineman had been killed the previous day by a generator back feed only two counties away.

Something else that you may want to be aware of is that the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers (IBEW) is committed to seeking reckless maiming or manslaughter charges against anyone who injures or kills a lineman by connecting a generator to a building’s wiring without the proper safeguards in place. If someone were being so callous with your life you would get a little testy too.

The Moral is that if you didn’t have a generator connection installed and inspected in advance you must not try to connect one to your home’s wiring with improvised methods! Just run cords from the generator to the loads that you need to power. If the load is not cord and plug connected and thus cannot be supplied by a cord from the generator then be prepared to do without it.

Tom Horne is a Master Firefighter / Rescuer of the Takoma Park Volunteer Fire Department which is an assisting agency of the Montgomery County Fire & Rescue Service, Maryland by vocation.  He is also a practicing Electrician by craft with over forty years experience in the installation, maintenance, and operation of emergency and standby power systems.

Copyright 2001 by Tom Horne. Reprinted with permission. All rights reserved.

“Real Estate bidding wars are back in parts of D.C. area”

That was the headline in last week’s Real Estate section of the Washington Post. To a Home Inspector, that is a very scary prospect: people engaged in bidding wars are often sorely tempted to waive the home inspection clause. This doesn’t just mean less work for Home Inspectors; it also means buyers are setting themselves up for the possibility of major expenses due to hidden defects in the home.

To protect yourself during the homebuying process, remember the “Five W’s” – Who, What, When, Where and Why.

Who is selling the house?

Many of the houses that are being bid on are bank-owned, which usually means it is in foreclosure. Such houses often have significant issues, often due to lack of maintenance. If owners couldn’t pay the mortgage, they probably could not afford regular service on the major systems of the house either.

What is the condition of the house?

Is the house vacant? If so, was it “winterized”? Winterizing is the worst thing you can do to a house. Modern houses are not meant to stray much outside the 55-85°F range. When a house is winterized and left to the elements you will get both cosmetic and system damage; it is just a matter of how bad it is.

The worst issues come when power is cut off, including power to the sump pump. In one winterized house I inspected, the basement flooded, and stayed flooded for a long time because the sump pump had no power.  Everything in the basement was ruined: the walls, carpet, appliances (Furnace, Water Heater, etc.) and the spores from what grew in the basement slowly spread throughout the house via the ductwork. Every surface in the basement was “fuzzy” and the rest of the house was badly contaminated.

In houses with ducted heating and cooling systems, assume that mold issues in the basement have been spread by the ductwork to the rest of the house and are just waiting for the right conditions to grow. Older homes with radiators and only window AC units are much better at containing such problems to the basement.

Broken pipes are also common in winterized houses, especially small breaks that are in walls that take 4-5 hours to show up. If water service is restored just before the inspection, and the inspection only takes 3 hours, the leak doesn’t show up until two hours after we leave – or it might not show up at all if the water is turned off immediately after the inspection. But when the water is restored for you to move in, you are in for a rude surprise, and a hefty repair bill. This is why ALL utilities need to be restored 24-48 hours prior to an inspection.

When was the house built?

At 5 years old, many systems may still be under warranty. Did the owners do the recommended annual maintenance? Are any of the systems subject to a manufacturer’s recall?

At 10 years old, most warranties (appliance, structural, builder, etc.) have expired.

At 17 years old, many appliances, furnaces, water heaters and roofs have reached the end of their useful life.

At 25 years old, many appliances, and systems should have been replaced. Renovations may have been made; were the proper permits obtained?

At 35 years old, most houses have seen at least one renovation. The second roof is nearing the end of its useful life.  Lead Paint could still be present.

At 50 years old, almost all appliances, systems and even the electrical panel have surpassed their useful life.  Insulation is usually minimal, unless renovations have been made. Lead paint is a common finding.

Where were changes made?

The most common places for renovations are kitchens, bathrooms and basements. I often see extensive and costly renovations done in kitchens, but have to report that they failed to put in a $20 Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor (GFCI) outlet. GFCI’s were required in bathrooms since 1975 and in kitchens since 1987, so if the kitchen renovation was done after 1987 there is no excuse for not having these life-saving outlets.

If they moved plumbing, added electrical circuits, or moved a wall they need to have pulled permits. Bathroom renovations are often done without permits because they are only doing cosmetic changes, and not structural, plumbing or electrical. But why spend $10,000 on a bathroom and not put in a $20 GFCI to save your life?

Most basement renovations include adding a few new circuits and probably a bathroom. Were the proper permits and inspections obtained? Basement bedrooms are a particularly sore point: they require emergency egress, either a properly sized window or a door, and a smoke alarm.

Why is the house being sold?

The reason for the sale may be an indicator of what might be lurking unseen. Is it an elderly couple moving to a retirement community? The house is likely older, with minimal updates; clean, but with older, outdated systems nearing or past the end of their useful lives. Is it a short sale? These houses tend to be newer, but with deferred maintenance and possibly vandalism as well. What would have been a minor repair several years ago (a leaking fixture for example) now becomes a major restoration job (replacing rotted flooring).

If you are involved in a bidding war

Ask for an informational-only inspection. This is basically a go/no-go inspection. I do the same inspection as I always do, but you make only a go/no-go decision rather than asking for particular things to be fixed/replaced/addressed.

Some things to think about

• The life of almost all home “systems” is approaching an average of 17-20 years. This includes roofs, furnaces, AC units, Water heaters, dishwashers and washing machines. Some may last much longer (AC units, refrigerators) but will use much more energy than newer units. Buying a 15-17 year old house with original appliances puts you in the danger zone in about 2 years.
• A 15-year-old roof may not be leaking today, but may need replacing in the next 3-5 years. Replacement costs tend to start in the $7,000-$15,000 range for a townhouse or small single-family home. Failure to replace a roof can lead to major structural damage in the framing members, drastically increasing the replacement costs.
• A furnace/AC system may be ‘working’ today, but costing you DOUBLE what a newer furnace might in fuel.  Gas and Oil furnaces could be spewing unseen toxins into the house.
• Appliances that are “only a few years old” can cost more to repair, and re-repair, than a new appliance.
• The toilet that seems just a bit loose may have a rotten floor underneath it that will require MUCH more than just tightening or a new Wax ring.

Still not convinced?

Skipping a Home Inspection is penny wise and pound foolish. Many of our clients have saved thousands of dollars in repairs by having us uncover defects in the houses they were considering. Buying a home is an enormous investment, and a Home Inspection will help make sure you have all the necessary information before you finalize the deal.

The DIY Home Inspection

Doing your own home inspections means looking everywhere -- and knowing what you're looking for.

There’s absolutely no law that says you have to get a home inspection. The only law (at least, in Maryland) is that if you do hire a home inspector, he or she needs to be licensed by the state, and a seller is not obligated to accept the findings of a non-licensed inspector. But to do one yourself, you don’t need any particular license or permit.

Let’s say you decide to do your own home inspection. First, you’ll probably want to buy a book on the topic so you feel educated on what you might find. Do a search on Amazon.com on “home inspection” and you’ll come up with 487 books to choose from. Which one of those is going to cover your particular need? We have links to some recommended books in our e-store. You’ll probably spend an hour choosing the right book, and then pay for it. That’s time taken away from your work, your family life, or your leisure time. When the book arrives, you have to read it. Set aside a few hours for that.

Now you’re going through the house, book in hand. You may want to even get  one of the check list books Bob uses for his inspections as a guide. You’ll be constantly flipping pages, checking to see if you missed anything. You might even see things that are perfectly normal and spend lots of time looking them up, only to find they are perfectly normal and acceptable (Home Inspectors call these items “serviceable”).

You finish your home inspection and show your findings to the seller. Chances are they will ask you, “Were these items flagged by a certified, licensed home inspector?” You’ll have to admit that they weren’t, and the seller might very well toss the entire list and refuse to fix any of the issues. Unless the inspection was performed by a certified, licensed professional, the seller is legally under no obligation to address any of the issues you may have found. You’re back to square one. Whats more, you could actually lose the opportunity to purchase the property, because you may have run out of time for the inspection contingency clause.

Consider the Humble Toilet

A normal toilet. Would you know how to inspect it?

When you think of a toilet, how would you inspect it? Most likely, you will press down the handle and see that it flushes. You’ll probably notice if there’s a crack on the seat. You might lift the tank lid and peer inside, but that will likely be the extent of your inspection.

A Home Inspector sees a toilet differently. When Bob approaches the toilet, he will first note if there are any stains on the floor around the toilet. Then he will gently place his knees on either side of the seat and check to see if the toilet rocks. Why use his knees? That way he’s not touching the toilet with his hands.

Then he’ll lift the lid and look inside the tank. In many older toilets, he will often find bricks. This was a common method of saving water, but the bricks tend to deteriorate over time and damage the tank, the pipes and the connections within the toilet.

He’ll look to determine the type of flapper and fill valve is installed in the toilet. Did you know that some fill systems are outlawed as unsafe? Would you be able to recognize one? What about the fill pipe: is it going to the right place? Is it long enough, or too long?  What about the water level: is it too low (won’t flush right) or too high (wastes water or runs by itself)?

Discoloration on the interior of the tank can also tell an inspector about the condition of the pipes, so he’ll be looking at the stains on the inside of the tank. Then he’ll flush the toilet and observe how long it takes, and that all the components are working as they should. Then he’ll repeat all the same steps for every toilet in the house.

False Economy

A Home Inspection will probably cost between $375 and $800 (or more), depending upon the size of the house and its location. Trying to perform your own inspection will doubtless cost more in the long run, when you factor in the time you must expend researching and preparing. You may also need to buy a few tools to do the inspection. Have you really saved anything?

Sometimes Experts Don’t Know Best

Bob has had several long-time contractors (general, electrical, finish carpentry and plumbing) as clients. He has asked a few of them, “Since you have been contracting longer than I have been inspecting, why did you hire me?” The answer is always the same: ”I know my portion of the house really well, and will be looking over your shoulder when you look at it, but I don’t know about the rest of the house. Maybe I know how I would do it, which I know is NOT the right way.” In many case when Bob is going over the report with the client, they will say something like, “You know, I looked right at that and didn’t see it.” Or, “I didn’t know this house had one of those.”

One Thing We Never Hear

Sometimes when we quote a price for a home inspection to a client, we will hear, “Wow, that’s a lot of money! Other companies do cheaper inspections.” We don’t claim to be the cheapest, but we do strive to provide the best home inspections. It’s very satisfying that we have never once had a client turn to Bob after the inspection and say, “Well, that was a waste of money.”

This gutter needs attention!

Gutters that seem to be working fine can be overflowing, leaking or be clogged without any outward signs on a dry day.  It takes a good, long, heavy rain to show the signs of problems. Downspouts may be directing water to unwanted places, or there could be ponding right by the splash block. Ideally, water should be carried at least six to eight feet away from the house before you release control of it; even then, it needs to be flowing AWAY from the house, not back towards a corner where it will find its way to your foundation. If there’s another house close to yours, note where the water from that house is going. Are their downspouts pointing at your foundation? Fixing a problem may require you to talk to your neighbor.

How is the sump pump working?  Where does the output of the sump pump go? It should be treated just like another downspout: make sure that the water doesn’t flow back towards the house and the foundation. Otherwise you’ll just be pumping the same water over and over again.

More than half of wet basements are caused by gutter and downspout issues, so take advantage of the rain to go look outside at your drainage.  Get wet so your basement will stay dry. If you spot drainage issues, it’s a good idea to take a picture or video, to help you pinpoint the problem areas after the rain has stopped.

Roofs and Gutters

Moss growing on the roof is a sign of advanced deterioration.

A roof covering system has a definite service life. Are your 20-year shingles approaching their mid-teens? If the roof is not leaking, it might make it another year, but if it is leaking you are risking hidden damage to the roof deck, the underlying insulation, or the room below. Moisture plus organic material (wood) plus time equals trouble.

Roofs don’t need much maintenance other than making sure they are free of debris. If the roof is shaded by trees, make sure there are no branches touching the house, and check periodically for any moss or other growths, as this can shorten the life of the roof.

Gutters should be kept free of debris. This includes the downspouts and splash blocks. Clogged gutters are one of the main causes of both roof damage and damp basements.

The HVAC System

A filter this dirty means the furnace is gasping for air.

Your low-efficiency furnace still works, and replacing it with a high-efficiency unit might not be in the budget. Maybe it can wait another year, but it’s important to get the current unit serviced so you get the most out of it.

One major cause of furnace issues is failure to change the air filter on a regular basis. The better filters can cost more than $20 each, and should be replaced every 30 days. Even though the label claims it can last up to 90 days, that assumes no carpets, pets, children or long hair. It is better to use the cheaper filters and replace them more often.

Make sure outside units have adequate airflow. Keep bushes and other vegetation well away from them.

Plumbing

The green corrosion on these copper pipes means they have been leaking.

Most plumbing maintenance consists of fixing the small problems before they grow into big ones. There are two components to plumbing leaks: the flaw in the system that needs to be repaired, and the wasted water itself. Even a leaky faucet can affect your water bill: one drip per second can waste more than 3000 gallons of water in a year!

Leaks in pipes can sometimes be sneaky. A pinhole leak behind a wall can damage the framing, insulation, drywall and any wiring in the area, and that can get very expensive to repair. Fixing small leaks can be a DIY job; local home improvement stores often hold free classes on how to repair pipes. (Hint: take the class BEFORE you have a plumbing problem!). Your public library is also a good source for home repair books.

While you’re checking for leaks, don’t forget to check the toilets. Replacing the ball valve in the tank is a simple fix.

If you have a septic system, have it pumped and inspected regularly. Don’t overload the system with non-organic materials (such as “flushable” kitty litter), and use as little chlorine bleach as possible. Failure to maintain a septic field can cause it to fail, which is both smelly and very expensive to fix.

Electrical

Charred wires are a warning that there may be serious issues with the electrical system.

Electrical systems don’t require much maintenance other than paying attention to small problems and addressing them before they cause big problems. Seemingly minor issues, such as a stubborn outlet that only works when you wiggle the plug in it, can actually be big problems. A loose connection can generate heat, which can build up behind a wall and cause a fire. Or, a loose wire can cause fatal shocks.

Test your ground fault circuit interruptor (GFCI) outlets regularly. Don’t just press the “test” button; plug something into the outlet first to check that the power actually goes out when you test it.

Smoke Detectors

If a smoke detector is so old its plastic case is yellowed, it's long since time to replace it.

Replace the Batteries twice a year. If the units are more than seven years old, replace them. Don’t risk your life or your house because you didn’t have working smoke detectors. If you have any type of gas appliances, you should also have a carbon monoxide detector.

Natural Gas or Propane Service

Bob leaves his "calling card" in a dirty furnace as a reminder to get it serviced.

Gas appliances should be serviced regularly. Corroded pipes or fittings can lead to gas leaks, which can lead to disaster. A service technician can ensure that fittings are tight and burners are working properly. This can also reduce the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Driveway

Small cracks allow water to penetrate beneath the driveway. This not only leads to larger cracks, but also gives plants a place to take root and undermine the pavement. Patch cracks when they appear, and you’ll dramatically prolong the life of your driveway.

Pay Attention!

It’s easy to overlook small issues when you’re living in a house. You see them every day and have learned to live with them. Make it a habit to go through your home on a regular basis (preferably every month) and make a list of the little maintenance jobs that need to be addressed. These include loose bolts and screws, burned-out lightbulbs, drippy faucets, and doors that stick. Spending a weekend tackling these issues while they’re still minor could mean a lot of time, money and headaches saved in the long run.

Not Sure What Needs Doing?

Contact us for a Home Checkup. We’ll go through the house and identify the issues, and you’ll know just what should be on the to-do list. The Home Checkup even includes a RecallChek, which determines whether any of the appliances in your home are subject to a manufacturer’s recall. To schedule your Home Checkup, use our convenient online scheduling system, or call us at (301) 208-8289.

Maintain the Drain

One of the major causes of damage to a house is water infiltration. Your house should have systems in place to channel rainwater away from the house, and these need to be maintained.

This gutter is long overdue for cleaning out!

• Clean out gutters and inspect them for damage
• Check the roof for missing or loose shingles
• Make sure downspouts are free of debris
• Check that all downspouts have properly positioned splash blocks.
• Make sure any exterior drain grates are free of debris

Prepare the Pipes

Make sure that water flows where and when you want it to.

This hose bib isn't secured in the wall, leaving gaps for infiltration by air, water and critters.

• Turn on water to outside hose bibs and check for any leaks.
• Make sure water heater temperature is lower than 120 degrees.
• Check all hoses for cracks, leaks or pinholes.

Keep the Critters Out

Warmer weather means more insects, birds and other critters. Take the time to make sure they won’t set up housekeeping within your walls!

This gap in the brick siding has already become a nesting spot.

• Trim shrubbery so it doesn’t touch the house
• Check soffit vents for any holes or tears
• Check ridge vents for holes or tears

Clogged dryer vents cause fires!

• Check dryer vent outlet for debris or bird damage (it’s a favorite spot for nesting); clogged vents are the culprit in up to 30% of house fires. Read more about dryer vent safety.
• Clear dead branches from the roof and around the house

Plan on Energy Savings

The summer heat will be upon us before we know it, so now’s the time to prepare for it.

Clogged air filters rob your furnace of efficiency.

• Get your air conditioning system serviced now, before the rush.
• Change the air filter
• Check the attic insulation; adding more now will help keep your cooling bills down.
• Check for drafts with a stick of incense; caulk any gaps. Here’s how to check for drafts.
• Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent (the newer bulbs are much better in mimicking the warmer incandescent light)

Be Mindful of Safety Issues

The warmer months mean lots of indoor and outdoor activity. Make preparations now to ensure that you’ll be safe this summer!

This deck railing is already pulling away from the wall and is a major safety hazard.

• Check all railings for stability. This includes interior stair railings, deck rails, and bathroom grab bars.
• Check your smoke detectors; you should have replaced the batteries when you changed your clocks to daylight savings time. However, if they are nearing 10 years old, it’s time to replace them.
• Add a Carbon Monoxide detector near sleeping areas.

Time for a Check Up?

Inspections by Bob does Maintenance Check-Ups! If you’ve been in your house for seven or more years, it’s definitely time for a check-up. Just like people, houses change over time as they age, and it’s important to make sure all the systems are working properly. Find out more about Maintenance Check-Ups!

Somewhere under all that snow is a driveway.

We got 22 inches of snow over the weekend, and are now poised to get another foot on top of that. The local, state and federal governments have ground to a halt; roads are impassable, and everyone is urged to stay home.

Many of our clients with Home Inspection contingencies written into their contracts are asking for, and receiving, extensions on those contracts. If you are facing a contingency deadline, contact your agent and ask for an extension.

Safety is our main concern when scheduling inspections during weather emergencies. Therefore, we have postponed all inspections until next week.

This is not storage space.

Because these spaces aren’t meant to be accessed frequently, it’s often difficult or inconvenient to reach them. If there are no utilities or systems installed in the attic space, such as air handlers, the access is usually limited to a simple framed hatch in the ceiling, requiring the owner to set up a ladder to get into the attic. These hatches can sometimes be tricky to spot: they are commonly tucked into closets.

If there is equipment in the attic, there may be a pull-down staircase specifically designed for attic access (but not always; I’ve inspected a house that had an air handler in the attic, with absolutely no access to the space at all!).

Access stairs need to reach the floor.

The stairs were just a little too short, so they "fixed" them.

These stairs come in many different forms, and new styles are constantly being introduced. But they all have something in common: they need to be installed correctly.

Read Label: Install Incorrectly Anyway

Instructions weren't missed... Just disregarded.

I have lost count of the number of attic stair units I have seen which are installed incorrectly (to the point of being unsafe to use), even though the installation instructions are clearly marked on the unit itself. Traditional wooden units are designed to be securely nailed  (with 16d nails or ½” lag bolts) into the attic joists, yet I still see many, many instances where drywall screws or even finishing nails are used. Whenever I encounter a stair unit screwed in rather than nailed, I warn my client to stay clear while I go up them, because if I hear the slightest creak I will be heading back down VERY fast.

Because It’s There

It can be tempting to view the vast open spaces of today’s truss roof as the perfect storage spot. After all, our grandparents stored their stuff in attics for years. But keep in mind that much of what they stored was natural material: cotton, wool, linen and the like. Today’s synthetics simply cannot withstand the same temperature fluctuations, and could deteriorate very quickly. Also, compressing the insulation will greatly diminish its effectiveness, costing you money in heating and cooling.

A Quick Hint

Keep the landing spot clear.

If your pull-down stairs are located in the garage, one common problem is having things in the way when you want to pull the stairs down. To help prevent this, mark out an area around the spot where the stairs meet the floor, and keep that area clear.

Often times I have to “disclaim” items on the inspection report because I cannot get to them, or they are not in inspectable condition. If your home is under contract and you are expecting the buyer’s home inspector, here are some simple things you can do to be ready.

Make sure key components are accessible. These include all doors and windows, attic access, HVAC system, water heater, and all electrical panels.

Access does not just mean “I can see it.” I need to be able to touch, operate and possibly open things. I need to be able to REMOVE the cover to the electrical panel, not just open the door, so any framing that blocks the cover screws needs to be removed. If you have caulked or painted the frame of the electric panel, please pre-score around the edge with a sharp blade; otherwise removing the panel cover may mar the wall. If the attic access pull-down stairs are in the attic, move any obstacles (cars, boxes, tools) beneath the access.

Provide keys to all doors and windows. Windows that are locked or bolted shut will be noted as “inoperable” and possibly as a safety hazard if they are an egress opening.

Pull out your receipts and records. If you have service records for the heating/cooling system, put them out for inspection. ALL manufacturers call for at least annual service, and if there is no evidence of it I will call for it to be done, possibly AGAIN if you don’t have (readable) receipts.

Show that work was done right. All improvement work needs to be done by licensed and bonded contractors or authorized companies, and receipts need to be on readable printed company letterhead.

Take advantage of the dishwasher test. If you want, you may leave the dishwasher ready to run. Put the dirty dishes and soap in the unit with a note of which cycle to run it on; otherwise I will run a “quick” cycle.

Check your wiring. Extension cords are generally frowned upon, as are ground adapters and light socket adapters. Make sure there are no exposed wire nuts.

Try all the lights. Replace any burned out bulbs, especially on single-bulb fixtures. Otherwise I might call out the fixture as inoperable, and you can replace bulbs much cheaper than an electrician can.

Check your house before the inspection. Run appliances. Flush toilets, run sinks, baths and showers. Check to make sure all the windows and doors open. Fix the minor problems BEFORE the inspection. You may be able to fix minor issues yourself; if I have to write them down I will call for them to be fixed by an authorized, certified manufacturer’s representative or licensed contractor, which will mean a MUCH more expensive repair. If you have things you know need repairing, do them BEFORE I get there.

If you have any other questions on getting ready for a home inspection, or any other aspect of home inspections, feel free to give us a call at (301) 208-8289, or email bob@inspectionsbybob.com

Egress

A small dorm room

Any room used as sleeping quarters must have a window large enough for not only the occupants to escape, but also for a fully-outfitted firefighter to get in. Make sure there is no furniture blocking the window.

Smoke Detectors

Every room should have one of these.

Every room should have a functioning smoke detector. There should be either a steady “ready” light, or one that blinks occasionally. We do NOT recommend testing the alarm on your own, as it will likely be connected to a central monitoring station, and testing an individual unit would probably bring the fire department running.

Sprinklers

Most newer dorms have sprinkler systems.

Most new or renovated dorms will have automatic sprinkler systems. Older buildings may not yet be retrofitted.

Pull Stations and Fire Extinguishers

Pull stations should be easily accessible.

These should be located in easily-accessible areas throughout the building. You should be able to see one from every dorm door.

Fire-Rated Doors and Fire Exits

Dorm rooms should have self-closing doors that are rated to withstand fire damage longer than normal residential doors. Exterior fire exit doors should be clearly-marked, with illuminated signs leading to them. Hallways leading to fire doors should be kept clear of clutter. Make sure your child knows the location of every emergency exit; he or she should also know how many doors are between their room and any exit, since hallways can be shrouded with smoke during a fire.

Electrical Safety

Outlets in the dorm room should be tightly secured, so plugs stay firmly in place during use. Loose or wobby outlets should be reported immediately.

Bathrooms

These outlets can save lives.

Anywhere you have water and electricity in close proximity, all outlets should be protected by Ground Fault Circuit Interruption (GFCI). These special outlets are identified by either a “Test-Reset” button on the outlet, or a label.

Hot Water

Bring along an instant-read thermometer and test the temperature of the hot water. It should be 120 degrees or less. Anything higher than that is a burn hazard. If you don’t have a thermometer handy, you can get a rough idea by turning on the hot water and testing it with your hand: if you say “ouch” before ten seconds are up, it’s too hot.

Security

Exterior doors should be self-closing and self-locking. Access should be allowed only by code, key or key card.

What About Off-Campus Housing?

It is common for older students to move from a dorm to an apartment off-campus. A well-run apartment building will have most, if not all, of the safety features listed above. However, the temptation to save money may lead the student to seek a cheap alternative, such as a basement room in a shared house. Such rentals can be risky, especially with regards to fire safety. I have seen illegal basement apartments where the bedrooms are windowless, and the only egress was through a galley kitchen.

Some Last Advice

The best thing you can do for your child is to teach them to be aware of their surroundings. My daughter knows to look for smoke detectors anywhere she plans to sleep, and knows why egress windows are important. She knows that her college has “safety stations” throughout the campus, which she can use to summon help. She also knows that she is responsible for her own safety now, and we have given her the knowledge to do just that.

Dorm room all set up... Time for college to begin!