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Old Electrical Service: Time to Upgrade?

Thursday, August 12th, 2010 by welmoed

Many houses built in the last century were constructed with minimal electrical service. When looking back to those times, there simply weren’t that many electrical devices in a home. Air conditioners weren’t readily available until after World War II, and in 1955 only 10 percent of U.S. households had electric clothes dryers. Hair dryers, toaster ovens, electric ranges, microwaves, electric water heaters and other such things were added over the years, greatly increasing electrical demands.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

With few of today’s modern conveniences, a house could easily get by with only 50-60 Amps of electrical service, and even today this level of service does not pose a problem, as long as electrical devices are kept to a minimum. However, when homeowners with such basic service start adding modern appliances, they quickly run out of electrical capacity, which can result in local brownouts, blown breakers or fuses, or overheating of wires and a possible fire hazard.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

Computers don’t take much, but they don’t like brownouts or flickers in power. For any type of computer or computerized appliance, it’s a good idea to use surge suppressors and uninterruptible power supplies to prevent damage. This includes computerized sewing machines, exercise equipment, TVs, digital video recorders, and cable boxes.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

Another consideration when with older homes is that many of the wires coming from the poles to the house, and then down the house to the meter, are 40-50 years old and are now frayed. Often the wire wrapped around the central conductors is now showing through. Contrary to common belief, that is not a ground, but a current-carrying conductor, often carrying substantial current. Although wrapping with tape is acceptable by some, most electricians agree that frayed Service Entrance (SE) cables should be replaced for safety. At a minimum, that wire needs to be replaced so that it is safe and it is a good opportunity to UPGRADE the entire service to a more modern 150-200A service. Most municipalities won’t install less than 125-150A, and most times 200A service is the same price as the lower, so 200A is installed. Even Townhouses and condominiums now are provided with 125-150A service per unit.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

Some all-electric homes, or homes with lots and lots of circuits, may even need a larger service (400A) because of the requirement for no more than 42 circuits per panel, and 150-200A per panel.  With the new rules, the number of circuits per panel is being relaxed, but homes with multiple air conditioners, water heaters, second kitchens, clothes dryers, guest quarters and other large users of electricity may still need the larger electrical service.

Modern Life Consumes Electricity

Here are typical amperage requirements for some common household appliances.

Electric Range:  40A

Wall Oven: 40A

Modern Electric Clothes Dyer: 30A (min.)

Air Conditioner, outside unit: 25A (min.)

Air Conditioner, inside unit: 15A

Microwave: 12A

Toaster: 12A

Hair Dryer: 12A

Dishwasher: 15A

To calculate how many amps an appliance needs, divide the wattage by 120 (normal household voltage). For example, a microwave oven that uses 1800 watts needs a 15 amp circuit. (Amps = Watts/Volts)

Safety Note

The service entry cable should always be protected from the elements, and from the possibility of abrasion or fraying. Soil settling around the foundation of a house can pull the cable conduit away from the meter box, with potentially disastrous consequences.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.

East Coast Endures Heat Wave: How’s Your House Holding Up?

Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 by Inspector Bob

The Washington, DC area is in the midst of a sizzling heat wave, with triple-digit highs. Air conditioning units are being stretched to the limit, and some residents are finding out that their systems are just not up to the task of keeping the house cool. But is it the air conditioner, or something else?

Air Leaks

Some common sources of air leaks

Some common sources of air leaks

Unintentional air leaks can suck cool air out of living spaces, drawing in more hot air from outdoors. Even tiny gaps around recessed light fixtures, vents and other penetrations can add up to a lot of leakage. A simple way to track down air leaks is to light a stick of incense and go through the house, checking around every wall penetration (electrical switches and outlets, exterior doors and windows, ceiling lights, etc.). When you find a draft, plug it with insulation, caulk or weatherstripping.

Insufficient Insulation

Insulation was swept aside for access and not replaced.

Insulation was swept aside for access and not replaced.

In the DC area, the minimum recommended insulation level is R-38. R-40/50 is better, and that is 14” of Fiberglas or 10” of cellulose at a minimum, with no paths, gaps or voids. A single small void can reduce the overall R value in the entire attic.

Contractors working in attic spaces sometimes clear footpaths through insulation and fail to replace it or fluff it back up as they leave. Settling is also an issue; you should inspect your attic regularly to make sure the insulation is in place.

One common weakness in attic insulation is the access hatch. It rarely has the recommended insulation, and that means a big reduction in overall attic protection. One way to insulate the hatch is to construct a simple open-bottomed box out of rigid foam insulation and silver foil tape (which is rated up to 150 degrees). This keeps the access hatch insulated, and is easily moved aside when you need to get into the attic.

Inadequate Ventilation

A powered attic fan can help your HVAC efficiency

A powered attic fan can help your HVAC efficiency

If the attic is 150 degrees, and you want the living space at 72, the insulation better be in really, really good shape. I have recorded temperatures above 150 during my inspections. The passive ridge vents just don’t hack it in our area; you really need active ventilation, meaning a powered fan, to keep the attic between 110 and 120 degrees or cooler.  Look at it this way: If you have an AC/Heat pump in the attic, and its metal chassis is at 150 degrees, how is it going to pump out 65 degree air without spinning the electric meter really fast?

Lack of Maintenance

If your HVAC unit is in the attic, it needs regular attention. Air filters need to be changed every 30 days.  AC units must be serviced each spring to make sure they have the right amount of coolant or you will have high electric bills and the unit won’t stand a chance of keeping up on these triple-digit days.

Design Considerations

The design temperature in the DC area is 95 to 100 degrees. This means that units are designed to be working at 100% capacity when the outside temperature is 95 to 100degrees and the inside “middle of the room” temperature is 78 degrees. If your unit is cycling on and off on a day like today, there is a problem. This could indicate that the unit is too big and is cooling the house too fast and not dehumidifying the house, so it will be cold and clammy because it is not running long enough to remove the humidity. Units need to be running 14-20 minutes before they reach peak dehumidification. If it cycles before that, you have a problem.

If your unit is undersized, you will not be able to cool the house down no matter how long the unit runs. This is why it is critical to have a properly-trained technician assess your home’s heating and cooling needs. Ask for a “Manual J” assessment; this is an industry standard survey that measures the square footage of window and wall space, along with other factors, to determine the house’s requirements.

A lot of the efficiency of an HVAC unit also hinges on proper installation; I have seen too many houses with improperly installed systems and/or faulty ductwork.

Practical Issues

The temperatures we’re seeing in the DC area are outside the normal range, and it really isn’t practical to install HVAC systems that can handle occasionally extreme temperatures. Doing so means the unit won’t operate efficiently on the more normal days, and will just increase the operating and maintenance costs.

Let There Be Light! (and Water, and Heat, and…)

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010 by welmoed

Hot summer days can breed powerful storms, and storms can mean power outages due to falling trees. A backup power system might be something to consider. Just ask yourself a few questions:

  1. Do you live in an area prone to serious power outages (for example, have you had two or more outages lasting at least twelve hours in the past year)?
  2. Do you rely on an electrically-operated well pump or water purifier for fresh water?
  3. Do you rely on a sump pump to keep your basement and its contents dry?
  4. Do you rely on a home medical device powered by electricity?

If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, you should seriously consider a backup power system.

Home generators are becoming popular options, especially in rural homes where above-ground power supply lines are more susceptible to falling trees and other weather hazards. And if you rely on well water, a power outage means you also lose your water supply once your holding tank is depleted.

Calculating Your Power Needs

It’s important to get the correct size generator for your needs. Make a list of the crucial circuits in your home: well pump, furnace, refrigerator, freezer, stove, and a few key lighting circuits. Add up the wattage for all these needs and that will give you the minimum capacity to shop for.

There are web tools available that allow you to check off which appliances you want to be able to use with a backup system, and help you calculate which size system is appropriate, such as this one from Gillette Generators. You can also download a PDF file from Generac which lists the power requirements of many common appliances. Note: We are not affiliated with either of these companies.

Keep in mind that for anything with a motor, you need to allow for how much energy is required to start the motor, since that is what pulls the most power. Several motors starting at once can cause even a large generator to stall.

A back-up power system should be large enough to power the essential systems in your home. You could certainly put in a system that is powerful enough to run the entire house, including big energy users like air conditioners and clothes dryers. But most of the time you just want to keep the basics running.

If you rely on medical equipment, such as nebulizers, oxygen concentrators or power stair lifts, you need to make sure your backup system is up to the task of running them.

Types of Generators

Portable

Portable Gasoline Generator

Portable Gasoline Generator

If outages aren’t frequent, then a portable generator could be an option. It is crucial to keep portable generators at least ten feet away from the house, to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning. Just recently, three people in Maryland were killed by carbon monoxide poisoning due to a portable generator running in the basement.

InspectionsByBob-CPSCwarninglabel

You need to use heavy-duty extension cords to connect your appliances directly to the generator. A portable generator isn’t suitable for use with hard-wired appliances. Also, since they tend to sit idle for long periods, the gas can go stale and gum up the engine.

Installed

The generator (1) connects to the power inlet plug (2) and feeds the transfer switch (3) off the main power panel (4).

The generator (1) connects to the power inlet plug (2) and feeds the transfer switch (3) off the main power panel (4).

The next type is the Installed Gasoline Generator. This tends to be a larger unit, on wheels, possibly with an electric starter. A sub-panel for the supported circuits is wired into the house, and a special connection plug is installed outside the house to connect the generator to the panel. This type of unit still has the same issues with gasoline as the smaller portable unit, but is located outside and eliminates snaking extension cords.

Whole-House

A Whole-House Generator is permanently installed.

A Whole-House Generator is permanently installed.

Larger generators can be permanently installed, with automatic transfer switches and weekly self-testing cycles. They will start automatically, usually within a minute of the power failure, and shut down when the power is restored. They can be powered either by natural gas or hooked up to a propane tank. These units can be large enough to power an entire house if desired, and can cost several thousand dollars. They are installed in weatherproof cabinets and make less noise than the average lawnmower.

Some generators are actually just super-sized battery backups, which can keep systems running for up to a day or two before needing to be recharged. These are fine for short outages, but won’t last long during a multi-day outage. The advantage of such a system is that it switches over almost instantly, so you don’t have to wait for a generator to power up. Another plus is that these systems are virtually silent.

Some Things to Consider

When planning for a generator, think about how it will be used and who will likely be operating it. When we were in our first house, we chose a small stand-alone gasoline-powered generator just big enough for the furnace, well pump and a light circuit. To use it, you had to go outside and start the generator manually with a pull cord, then go inside and throw switches. Easy for my husband to do; however, we failed to consider that he might not be home when a blackout occurred, and didn’t take into account that I might have to start it in the pouring rain, while leaving our two small children alone inside the house. For our next house, we got a fully-automatic system.

Have More questions?

If you have questions about home generators, or any other Home Inspection issue, we’re happy to help. Just give us a call at (301) 208-8289.

Alert: New Requirements on Lead Paint Abatement

Monday, April 26th, 2010 by welmoed

Many houses and apartments built before 1978 have paint that contains lead (called lead-based paint). Lead from paint, chips, and dust can pose serious health hazards if not taken care of properly.

Lead paint chips and dust can contaminate the air and water.

Lead paint chips and dust can contaminate the air and water.

Federal law requires that individuals receive certain information before renting or buying pre-1978 housing:

  • LANDLORDS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before leases take effect. Leases must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint.
  • SELLERS have to disclose known information on lead-based paint and lead-based paint hazards before selling a house. Sales contracts must include a disclosure form about lead-based paint. Buyers have up to ten days to check for lead hazards.

As of April 22, 2010, federal law requires that contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb more than six square feet of paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 must be certified and trained to follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination.

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has extensive information on their website regarding these new regulations, along with information about how to hire a certified professional.

We can check for lead paint during a home inspection by using chemical swabs. However, more sensitive testing is required to reveal lead paint hidden under wallpaper or repainted surfaces.

The EPA’s Lead Information brochure (in PDF format) is available for download from our website.

CPSC and HUD issue Guidelines on Defective Drywall

Tuesday, April 6th, 2010 by welmoed

In a nutshell: Out it goes… along with a lot of other stuff as well.

Does your house have problem drywall? If so, you'll need to remove it... along with a lot of other stuff.

Does your house have problem drywall? If so, you'll need to remove it... along with a lot of other stuff.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and US Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) have issued interim remediation guidelines regarding the issue of problem drywall imported from China, which has been associated with corrosion of metal parts such as pipes and electrical components.

The cause of the corrosion was found to be a high level of hydrogen sulfide.

Based on scientific study of the problem to date, HUD and CPSC recommend consumers remove all possible problem drywall from their homes, and replace electrical components and wiring, gas service piping, fire suppression sprinkler systems, smoke alarms and carbon monoxide alarms. Taking these steps should help eliminate both the source of the problem drywall and corrosion-damaged components that might cause a safety problem in the home.

To read the full text of the remediation guidelines, visit the federal Dryall Information Center website (PDF).

How to Identify Problem Drywall

The affected drywall was installed between 2001 and 2008, with most occurring between 2005 and 2008. The most obvious sign is blackening of copper electrical wiring and/or air conditioning evaporator coils. Chemical analysis may be required to confirm the specific chemical emissions from the drywall.

A full text of the identification process can be obtained from the CPSC website (PDF).

Most of the problem drywall was used in Florida and the Gulf states, during the building boom following hurricanes Katrina and Rita. However, there have been reports of it in Virginia, and on the Eastern Shore.

Now What?

If you suspect your property has been affected by this issue, you should contact the CPSC by calling 800-638-2772, or visit the Drywall Information Center.

Sorry, We Can’t Make It

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010 by welmoed

In order for us to do Home Inspections, it is first necessary for us to find our driveway.

Somewhere under all that snow is a driveway.

Somewhere under all that snow is a driveway.

We got 22 inches of snow over the weekend, and are now poised to get another foot on top of that. The local, state and federal governments have ground to a halt; roads are impassable, and everyone is urged to stay home.

Many of our clients with Home Inspection contingencies written into their contracts are asking for, and receiving, extensions on those contracts. If you are facing a contingency deadline, contact your agent and ask for an extension.

Safety is our main concern when scheduling inspections during weather emergencies. Therefore, we have postponed all inspections until next week.

Las Vegas in a Nutshell

Monday, January 25th, 2010 by welmoed

When you go to a conference, you get a lot of information. It comes in the form of brochures, fliers, DVDs, CDs, booklets and samples. And then there is all the other stuff: promotional items (affectionately known as “swag”), and, thankfully, bags to carry it all in.

So how much did we bring back from Las Vegas? Take a look:

Our "homework"!

Our "homework"!

We’ll have a lot to share with our readers over the coming weeks!

Greetings from Mrs. Bob!

Sunday, January 24th, 2010 by welmoed

I’m thrilled that my position with my husband’s company is now official! For the last seven years, I’ve answered the phones, made appointments, and tried to answer questions as best I could, while still running my own drapery workroom business, as well as raising two children.

Now the drapery business is closed, the children are away at college, and I’m on board with Bob to help make Inspections by Bob even better!

I’ve done a lot of different jobs over the years, including graphic arts, marketing, journalism, teaching, sewing, and interior design. Quite honestly, all of them were secondary to my role as mother to our two wonderful children. I’m so fortunate to have been able to be a full-time mom for them.

This year, Bob and I decided that the time was right for me to officially join his company as an employee, and be in charge of his scheduling, marketing, and other back-office support. To that end, he took me along to Las Vegas to attend the 2010 Inspection World conference. I took classes on how to be a home inspector, as well as marketing workshops.

Right now, I’m not planning on becoming a licensed home inspector. But I do plan to take classes and learn as much as I can about home inspection, because doing so will enable me to help more clients over the phone while Bob is in the field. I’ll also be taking over writing for this blog, as well as refining the brochures and handouts Bob gives to clients. Bob will still write the more technical posts, and do all the inspections, but I might be showing up at inspections to help out, or to take pictures or videos.

I’d love to hear suggestions for this blog… What kinds of posts do you want to see? What kinds of questions do you have about home inspections? We’re here to answer them.

Introducing Inspections by Bob’s Newest Employee

Sunday, January 24th, 2010 by Inspector Bob

Welmoed Sisson, Bob’s wife,  has long been helping out Inspections by Bob by answering the phones and making Bob’s materials look better.  As Inspections by Bob got busier, and her own drapery business declined, both Bob and Welmoed thought it was time for her to come on board officially.

Welmoed Sisson at the International Builders Show

Welmoed Sisson at the International Builders Show

Welmoed brings many years of graphic design and marketing knowledge to the business, along with the experience of restoring a historic house and renovating several others while Bob was working other jobs.

To officially bring Welmoed on board, I thought it best to give her some additional Home Inspector training by sending her to a one-day course in Home Inspecting that was being provided as part of the ASHI International Home Inspectors Show from Jan 16-20.  Along with the initial crash course, Welmoed joined over 800 other inspectors in taking over 20 Hours of ASHI accredited training classes in a variety of subjects from Electrical to Foundations.

Welmoed’s primary duties will continue to be to answer the phones and provide marketing support, but may eventually find her way into the field.

Electrical Outlets Dangerous? Shocking!

Wednesday, January 6th, 2010 by Inspector Bob

“Electrical outlets can pose hazard,” the newspaper headline  reads. Sounds obvious, right? Like “water is wet.”

Each year in the United States, between 3,000 and 5,000 people, mostly young children, are injured by inserting objects into electrical outlets.
These injuries will be prevented by a change in the National Electrical Code: as of 2008, all new homes are required to have tamper-resistant outlets. These outlets incorporate “shutters” that only open for electrical plugs, and not things like paper clips and screwdrivers.

Ask to see this tamper-resistant outlet sample.

Ask to see this tamper-resistant outlet sample.

Although these outlets are now required on new construction, there is no regulation requiring their installation in existing homes. However, installing these outlets is a relatively simple job that can be performed by any electrician; it’s also something a homeowner can do as a DIY project. Many home improvement books have complete instructions on how to replace outlets; just be sure to follow all the safety precautions.

At Inspections by Bob, we pride ourselves in keeping up with the changes in building technology, and work to keep our clients up to date on what they can do to make their homes safer. This means we are members of many associations, not just inspection-related. This includes the International Association of Electrical Inspectors (IAEI), the National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA), and more (for a complete list, please visit our web site).


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