The answer is lots. Although condos are generally smaller and buyers shouldn’t have to worry about the exterior, grounds, foundations, roofs and other sections usually inspected for a single family home or townhouse, there are still plenty of things that need to be inspected to make sure they are safe.

None of the maintenance of a condominium complex's exterior is the responsibility of a unit's owner. However, we will still inspect it for safety and suitability.

As with all our inspections, we start with the exterior, even though this common property is the management’s responsibility:

• Are the walkways safe, with smooth, even surfaces and no trip hazards
• Are the handrails present and secure
• Are the elevator inspections up to date
• Are the exterior doors secure

Problems with these areas point to maintenance problems overall and suggest that the buyer re-examine the Condo documents for maintenance plan and budget.

We then go inside the unit and continue the inspection.

• Does the age of the development mean a LEAD PAINT waiver may be required?
• Are any outlets painted over?
• Have the smoke detectors been replaced, and are there an adequate number of detectors?
• Is the water temperature safe?
• Is the stove properly anchored?
• Is the electrical panel accessible and appropriate?
• Do all the appliances work?
• Are there GFCI’s in all the appropriate places?
• Is the HVAC system in working order and has it been maintained?
• Have any of the appliances been recalled? (we run RecallCheks on Condo appliances as part of our inspection)
• Are the bathroom walls/tile in serviceable shape?
• Do the toilets work properly and are they securely anchored to the floor?
• Do sinks drain properly? (the pipes belong to the association)

Special Considerations for Condos

When you buy a single family home, you own and are responsible for all the systems and structure of the home. However, in a Condominium, your ownership stops at the drywall. Everything inside the walls (plumbing pipes, vents, electrical wiring, wall studs) are the property of the condo association and, usually, unit owners are NOT permitted to repair or alter these systems.

This water damage in a condo unit could lead to structural issues like rot, but the unit owner is not permitted to repair it as the pipes belong to the Association.

There are several issues that are cause for serious concern because even if YOU address YOUR UNIT, the issues may exist above, below and to each side of you.

• Recalled Electrical Panels: FPE Panels were popular when many high-rises were built in the 60′s and 70′s
• Polybutylene Piping: This is rarely discussed in Condos or Apartments because acknowledging the problem would mean system wide replacement, which would be extremely costly.
• Asbestos on Steam/heating Piping
• Lack of Smoke Detectors because the units didn’t require then when built
• Overly long dryer vents with no plan to routinely clean them (they go through common space and are in the walls so they are the Association’s responsibility)

Condo/Apartment living does have its advantages, but everything INSIDE the unit is your responsibility so make sure everything is working properly before you buy the unit. Even though the systems and all the stuff in the walls is someone else’s responsibility, you want to know if they ARE maintaining it properly.

First of all, familiarize yourself with the ASHI Customer Bill of Rights. This will tell you whether your Home Inspector is operating in a professional, ethical manner, with your best interests in mind.

Once at the site with the Home Inspector, you can ask specific questions. You might want to bring along your own notebook and/or camera (And if your Home Inspector discourages this, ask them why!).

Questions to ask your inspector onsite:

• Where is my Electrical panel and how do I shut it off?
• Where is my Water service and how do I shut it off?
• Where are my outdoor faucet shutoffs?
• Do I have enough smoke detectors?
• What needs to be serviced before I move in?
• What needs routine/annual service?
• What should I test routinely, and when should I test it?
• Where is the master GFCI for the kitchen/bathroom/outside/etc?
• What should I do if..(smell gas, outlet doesn’t work, see a leak, etc.)
• How do I operate my garage door without power?
• How do I find a good contractor/repairperson?
• How do I adjust the water temperature?
• Should I have my ducts cleaned?
• Do I need more insulation?
• What can I do to save energy? (or what should I do first to save energy?)
• What is (fill in the blank – an unusual switch, oddball feature, etc.)

Above all, don’t be afraid of asking any question, even if you think it’s silly. And if you don’t understand the answer, tell us and we’ll explain it until you do. That’s our job!

What could possibly be lurking beneath this beautifully renovated kitchen?

Let’s start at the bottom: the foundation. If a house’s foundation is not happy, the entire house will be unhappy and have problems.  The foundation needs to be dry and stable. No undercutting or digging near the footings. Improper materials such a tree trunks that were used to support parts of the house need to have been replaced with more suitable materials. Insulation should be correctly installed so that the house is kept warm from the bottom up (Incorrectly installed insulation is a breeding ground for all sorts of pests and can accelerate damage while at the same time hiding it).

Plumbing pipes need to be examined and replaced as many of the old materials are well past their useful lives and will react poorly if connected to newer materials without special precautions.

Electrical systems need to be updated and brought up to modern safety standards.  An older 60A-2wire system is not going to be able to support a modern kitchen, laundry and Heat Pump and if incorrectly “updated” can hide potentially deadly shock hazards.

Older heating systems are MUCH less efficient that modern ones, and although they may continue to WORK for many years, they will hurt you a little bit every month.  Modern fuel burning appliances are now routinely 90+% efficient; old systems were barely 70% when new and in top form.  AC units went from a SEER (efficiency rating) of 8 to over 20 — a possible reduction of 75% in electrical usage.

Lastly, all existing ongoing damage needs to be addressed.  I have seen a new, state of the art, triple pane, argon filled, low-E window installed into a window opening where I could poke my finger into the cavity of the house through the rotten wood the windows was installed into.

My clients have often been quite surprised to find that their beautifully restored house needs tens of thousands of dollars in repairs to the INFRASTRUCTURE of the house to stop the ongoing damage, stabilize the house, and make it safe for modern living.  The previous owners had spent all their money on making it look good, but next to nothing on its foundation, plumbing, heating, or electrical system.

The foundation under that kitchen was in need of repairs.

Recently I inspected a house whose interior was beautifully renovated. However, the basement told a different story. The original foundation was stone and timber (yes, actual tree trunk sections were supporting the house. After more than 100 years, they were deteriorating). Over the years, repairs and additions were made with brick, then with concrete block, and finally, poured concrete. The original foundation pieces were still there. In Home Inspection training we are taught that there are five foundation materials: wood, stone, brick, concrete block, and poured concrete. This is the first time I have seen all five materials in one property!

Infrastructure repairs can be expensive, and many people are reluctant to spend money on things that don’t “show.” But neglecting infrastructure could mean that the new kitchen you just spent a pretty penny on could be in jeopardy.

The spots on this floor may not look pretty, but they don't affect the function of the floor, or present a trip hazard, so they fall under "cosmetic."

There are a lot of common defects that by themselves pose no concern.

• Drywall nail pops
• Drywall tape peeling
• cracks at the junction of walls and/or ceilings
• Floor squeaks
• Cracks above doors and other wall openings
• Carpet stains
• Bleaching of carpets or floors due to sun
• Fading paint
• Fading window treatments

These are all considered cosmetic as they have no effect on the serviceability of the structure or system. Only if the defect is accompanied by other symptoms or indicators such as moisture stains, moisture, movement, displacement or unevenness is it an issue, and then we are looking for the CAUSE, not necessarily the cosmetic symptom.

A nail pop by itself is rarely of issue. However, a rusty nailpop surrounded by a water stain is a different matter. Cracking drywall bead at corners or ceilings is very common and, unless accompanied by water or rust stains, is more an indicator or poor drywall technique than anything else.

Exterior wood often shows cosmetic issues long before they become serviceability issues. Often all that is needed is cleaning, priming, maybe some putty, and some paint. In other words, routine upkeep and maintenance, which is something that is very hard to get Realtors to even write up. Even If the wood is really soft, wet, or possibly the damage goes through the exterior surface, unless it endangers the structure or function, involves pests, or poses a safety risk, it all falls under “cosmetic” and is the responsibility of the buyer to address. If the surface has been repaired and is sound, like at the bottom of doors, it can be really ugly but not be anything more than Cosmetic.

The glazing on this window is damaged and the trim needs to be painted. But the window still works as intended, so the damage is cosmetic.

Doors that bind are another common fault. Is there something hanging from the door that has warped it or may be interfering with it? Has the door been painted numerous times? Only when the door is racked, and there are additional signs such as an uneven floor, uneven cracks, or other doors in the vicinity that also have issues (in the same direction) do we start looking for additional faults. If a single door sticks or is hard to open/close, it probably needs routine adjustment and is not a sign of something more sinister.

So in general, even if there is cosmetic damage to a property (and yes, rot can fall into this category), unless it is interfering with the serviceability of the component, a seller may not be required to fix the damage. For example, a window can have rotted or ugly trim, but if you can still open and close the window, see out of it, and it’s keeping the weather out, the damage is considered cosmetic. The damage should be repaired or replaced, but it will likely be the responsibility of the new owner. However, if the damage prevents the window from opening, then it is no longer functioning as designed and can occasionally be written up.

Why occasionally, and not always? Most current contracts only allow defects that fit into five specific categories (roof, appliances, electrical, plumbing, heating) to be addressed as part of a Home Inspection contingency. Everything else is considered cosmetic, or needs to be addressed in a different section of the contract. Note that structure, air conditioning, and safety are noticeably absent from the list.

The lesson is to understand both the scope of a Home Inspection and the contents of your contract. Here is where your realtor should be watching out for your best interests.

Would you believe… neither?

Calculating the cost savings for replacing either an HVAC unit or windows can be tricky, but it’s worth doing the math to make sure you’re spending your improvement dollars wisely.

Keeping your cool

Let’s take the example of an older gas furnace/AC unit. If the average summer electric bill is $300 and the average winter bill is $175, then the AC component of the electric bill is around $125 per month. Older units can have efficiency ratings of around 8, and new ones are rated at 16, so in theory, you could cut the AC component of the electric bill in half. But how much are you saving, really?

In the DC area, air conditioning is used for three to four months of the year. Even if you upgrade to a unit with double the efficiency of the old unit, your total savings could be surprisingly small:

Old unit: $125 x 4 months = $500 electricity cost for AC

New unit: $75 x 4 months = $250 electricity cost for AC

So the new unit will save you $250 per year. Assuming you spend $6000 on the new unit, the payback period could be as long as 24 years… much longer than the expected lifespan of the new equipment. If your existing equipment is still working, a more cost-effective option is regular maintenance. Have it tuned, change the filters regularly, and make sure all ductwork is sealed properly.

Uninsulated ductwork in attics leads to excessive energy loss and increased utility bills.

What about windows?

Window efficiency is expressed as “R value.” An old single-pane window has an R value of one; if it has a storm window, it goes up to two. A new modern double- or triple-pane insulated window can have an R value between 3 and 6. Replacement windows start at around $250 per standard opening (and that would be for vinyl single hung inserts with an R value of 3), and an average house has about 12 windows, replacing them all can easily exceed $3000. Full replacement with wood-framed windows can easily be triple that. That’s a lot of electricity cost to recoup.

Simply closing the latch on this double-hung window will help lower energy bills.

Before choosing to replace windows, make sure the gaps around the frames are well-caulked. Fix any loose latches or hardware so the windows close tightly. Add operable draperies to cut down on heat gain/loss.

One upgrade that makes sense

An item that is often overlooked as an energy hog is the refrigerator. A fridge that is only 5 years old may be using twice as much energy as a newer model, and fridges use much more energy than people think. After all, they are running all the time! Many houses also have a second fridge in the basement, often containing just a few items. These smaller secondary fridges are usually bigger energy hogs than the one in the kitchen. Replacing an inefficient fridge with a new Energy Star rated model could pay for itself in energy savings within five years.

The broken icemaker and stains on the gasket indicate this fridge might be a candidate for replacement.

You can check whether it makes sense to replace your own fridge by using the government’s Energy Star Calculator.

I got a call the other day from a client whose house I inspected a few weeks ago. She was upset because there was water in the basement crawl space, and I hadn’t warned her it would happen. To make sure I hadn’t missed anything, I returned to the house to reinspect the basement.

There was indeed water intrusion in the corner of the crawl space. However, at the time of the inspection we hadn’t had significant rain for quite a while, but since the inspection the area had experienced several severe downpours.

I explained this to my client, and showed her the likely culprit: improper drainage at a gutter downspout where the ugly downspout extensions had been removed.

The #1 cause of wet basements is gutters. Clogged gutters, damaged gutters, disconnected downspouts, sunken splash blocks and more can prevent gutter systems from doing their job: channeling rainwater away from the house. The location and type of staining can provide clues to how the water is entering the house.

Water in the corners

Look at the downspout on the outside of that corner and note where the water from the downspout goes. If it collects around the corners of the house, there is a problem. Water should be channeled six to eight feet away from the house via downspout extensions, and should continue to flow away from the house after leaving the tube. If it collects anywhere near the foundation, it WILL find its way into your basement.

Water in the middle of the wall

Check the gutters to make sure they are not damaged, sagging or overflowing. If there is a wear-line in the soil outside near the wetness, or there is a lot of moss, wild-strawberries, or growth on the siding, the gutters are not doing their job.

The whole basement seems damp

Check the sump pump. I have found many left unplugged, or with a tripped GFCI, missing extension cord or other reason for not running. Is the crock full of water?  There should be no more than 1-2″ of water in the pit/crock. If the pit/crock is almost full, the pump is not working. Maybe the float is stuck or maybe the pump has simply stopped working. HUD says that a sump pump’s life is only 12-15 years.

Also, check to make sure the condensate pipe from the air conditioner is going somewhere proper. More than once I have found condensate emptying into a sump crock with no pump.

If the house was dry at the time of the inspection, and there were no indicators of a problem (rust stains on the floor, stained boxes, stains or blisters on the wall), there was nothing for the inspector to see. In the case of my client, the change in the weather exposed the defect in the gutters.

“Real Estate bidding wars are back in parts of D.C. area”

That was the headline in last week’s Real Estate section of the Washington Post. To a Home Inspector, that is a very scary prospect: people engaged in bidding wars are often sorely tempted to waive the home inspection clause. This doesn’t just mean less work for Home Inspectors; it also means buyers are setting themselves up for the possibility of major expenses due to hidden defects in the home.

To protect yourself during the homebuying process, remember the “Five W’s” – Who, What, When, Where and Why.

Who is selling the house?

Many of the houses that are being bid on are bank-owned, which usually means it is in foreclosure. Such houses often have significant issues, often due to lack of maintenance. If owners couldn’t pay the mortgage, they probably could not afford regular service on the major systems of the house either.

What is the condition of the house?

Is the house vacant? If so, was it “winterized”? Winterizing is the worst thing you can do to a house. Modern houses are not meant to stray much outside the 55-85°F range. When a house is winterized and left to the elements you will get both cosmetic and system damage; it is just a matter of how bad it is.

The worst issues come when power is cut off, including power to the sump pump. In one winterized house I inspected, the basement flooded, and stayed flooded for a long time because the sump pump had no power.  Everything in the basement was ruined: the walls, carpet, appliances (Furnace, Water Heater, etc.) and the spores from what grew in the basement slowly spread throughout the house via the ductwork. Every surface in the basement was “fuzzy” and the rest of the house was badly contaminated.

In houses with ducted heating and cooling systems, assume that mold issues in the basement have been spread by the ductwork to the rest of the house and are just waiting for the right conditions to grow. Older homes with radiators and only window AC units are much better at containing such problems to the basement.

Broken pipes are also common in winterized houses, especially small breaks that are in walls that take 4-5 hours to show up. If water service is restored just before the inspection, and the inspection only takes 3 hours, the leak doesn’t show up until two hours after we leave – or it might not show up at all if the water is turned off immediately after the inspection. But when the water is restored for you to move in, you are in for a rude surprise, and a hefty repair bill. This is why ALL utilities need to be restored 24-48 hours prior to an inspection.

When was the house built?

At 5 years old, many systems may still be under warranty. Did the owners do the recommended annual maintenance? Are any of the systems subject to a manufacturer’s recall?

At 10 years old, most warranties (appliance, structural, builder, etc.) have expired.

At 17 years old, many appliances, furnaces, water heaters and roofs have reached the end of their useful life.

At 25 years old, many appliances, and systems should have been replaced. Renovations may have been made; were the proper permits obtained?

At 35 years old, most houses have seen at least one renovation. The second roof is nearing the end of its useful life.  Lead Paint could still be present.

At 50 years old, almost all appliances, systems and even the electrical panel have surpassed their useful life.  Insulation is usually minimal, unless renovations have been made. Lead paint is a common finding.

Where were changes made?

The most common places for renovations are kitchens, bathrooms and basements. I often see extensive and costly renovations done in kitchens, but have to report that they failed to put in a $20 Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor (GFCI) outlet. GFCI’s were required in bathrooms since 1975 and in kitchens since 1987, so if the kitchen renovation was done after 1987 there is no excuse for not having these life-saving outlets.

If they moved plumbing, added electrical circuits, or moved a wall they need to have pulled permits. Bathroom renovations are often done without permits because they are only doing cosmetic changes, and not structural, plumbing or electrical. But why spend $10,000 on a bathroom and not put in a $20 GFCI to save your life?

Most basement renovations include adding a few new circuits and probably a bathroom. Were the proper permits and inspections obtained? Basement bedrooms are a particularly sore point: they require emergency egress, either a properly sized window or a door, and a smoke alarm.

Why is the house being sold?

The reason for the sale may be an indicator of what might be lurking unseen. Is it an elderly couple moving to a retirement community? The house is likely older, with minimal updates; clean, but with older, outdated systems nearing or past the end of their useful lives. Is it a short sale? These houses tend to be newer, but with deferred maintenance and possibly vandalism as well. What would have been a minor repair several years ago (a leaking fixture for example) now becomes a major restoration job (replacing rotted flooring).

If you are involved in a bidding war

Ask for an informational-only inspection. This is basically a go/no-go inspection. I do the same inspection as I always do, but you make only a go/no-go decision rather than asking for particular things to be fixed/replaced/addressed.

Some things to think about

• The life of almost all home “systems” is approaching an average of 17-20 years. This includes roofs, furnaces, AC units, Water heaters, dishwashers and washing machines. Some may last much longer (AC units, refrigerators) but will use much more energy than newer units. Buying a 15-17 year old house with original appliances puts you in the danger zone in about 2 years.
• A 15-year-old roof may not be leaking today, but may need replacing in the next 3-5 years. Replacement costs tend to start in the $7,000-$15,000 range for a townhouse or small single-family home. Failure to replace a roof can lead to major structural damage in the framing members, drastically increasing the replacement costs.
• A furnace/AC system may be ‘working’ today, but costing you DOUBLE what a newer furnace might in fuel.  Gas and Oil furnaces could be spewing unseen toxins into the house.
• Appliances that are “only a few years old” can cost more to repair, and re-repair, than a new appliance.
• The toilet that seems just a bit loose may have a rotten floor underneath it that will require MUCH more than just tightening or a new Wax ring.

Still not convinced?

Skipping a Home Inspection is penny wise and pound foolish. Many of our clients have saved thousands of dollars in repairs by having us uncover defects in the houses they were considering. Buying a home is an enormous investment, and a Home Inspection will help make sure you have all the necessary information before you finalize the deal.

The only thing that seems to be certain is that things will fail at either the most inconvenient time (like, right before a party) or when the repair will be most expensive (like, plumbing repairs on weekends).

If anyone had asked us about the water supply to our house yesterday morning, I would have told them it was through a well in our back yard, pumped into a pressure tank, and distributed through the house. And it was working just fine. Had a Home Inspector been doing a report, I’m sure it would have been marked “appears serviceable.”

I did the dishes after dinner without a problem. But just an hour or two later, I turned the faucet in the kitchen to fill a pitcher and… dribble. NOT a good sign.

Bob and I checked for leaks, then worked our way back in the supply lines to the pressure tank and controls. It looked like the pressure valve might have gone bad. In any case, we were without water.

This morning, I called our well pump company (Tri-County Pump Services), and they sent their crew over this afternoon. They quickly determined that the pressure switch was fine; in fact, the pump was operating… It just wasn’t pumping anything. NOT a good sign either. They ended up pulling the pump.

And once we saw the old pump, it became crystal-clear why we weren’t getting any water.

It’s easier to see in this close-up:

See how the ridges of the shaft are almost totally smooth? You can see, higher up on the shaft, just how deep those ridges should be. This pump was installed in 1994, and has been in constant use since then. The average life of a well pump is between 15 and 20 years, so this sits well inside the “anticipated life span”. Its time had come, and it failed without warning.

Yet, a Home Inspector would have no way of predicting when this pump would fail. All they can do is quote statistical data and look for clues. In our case, there were no clues… just sudden failure.

And that’s just the way things happen sometimes. But do they always have to happen on weekends?!?

What we have here is a failure to communicate.

Not to mention a real lint and moisture problem unless that vent pipe is rerouted!

No, that’s not a bale of hay. It’s a squirrel nest, and it’s one of the biggest ones Bob has seen.

The second-biggest nest was on the other side of this same attic, along with a bathroom vent pipe that had been completely chewed through and looked like it was used by the squirrels as a guest apartment.