Maintenance | Home Inspection Confidential

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Archive for the ‘Maintenance’ Category

Old Electrical Service: Time to Upgrade?

Thursday, August 12th, 2010 by welmoed

Many houses built in the last century were constructed with minimal electrical service. When looking back to those times, there simply weren’t that many electrical devices in a home. Air conditioners weren’t readily available until after World War II, and in 1955 only 10 percent of U.S. households had electric clothes dryers. Hair dryers, toaster ovens, electric ranges, microwaves, electric water heaters and other such things were added over the years, greatly increasing electrical demands.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

With few of today’s modern conveniences, a house could easily get by with only 50-60 Amps of electrical service, and even today this level of service does not pose a problem, as long as electrical devices are kept to a minimum. However, when homeowners with such basic service start adding modern appliances, they quickly run out of electrical capacity, which can result in local brownouts, blown breakers or fuses, or overheating of wires and a possible fire hazard.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

Computers don’t take much, but they don’t like brownouts or flickers in power. For any type of computer or computerized appliance, it’s a good idea to use surge suppressors and uninterruptible power supplies to prevent damage. This includes computerized sewing machines, exercise equipment, TVs, digital video recorders, and cable boxes.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

Another consideration when with older homes is that many of the wires coming from the poles to the house, and then down the house to the meter, are 40-50 years old and are now frayed. Often the wire wrapped around the central conductors is now showing through. Contrary to common belief, that is not a ground, but a current-carrying conductor, often carrying substantial current. Although wrapping with tape is acceptable by some, most electricians agree that frayed Service Entrance (SE) cables should be replaced for safety. At a minimum, that wire needs to be replaced so that it is safe and it is a good opportunity to UPGRADE the entire service to a more modern 150-200A service. Most municipalities won’t install less than 125-150A, and most times 200A service is the same price as the lower, so 200A is installed. Even Townhouses and condominiums now are provided with 125-150A service per unit.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

Some all-electric homes, or homes with lots and lots of circuits, may even need a larger service (400A) because of the requirement for no more than 42 circuits per panel, and 150-200A per panel. With the new rules, the number of circuits per panel is being relaxed, but homes with multiple air conditioners, water heaters, second kitchens, clothes dryers, guest quarters and other large users of electricity may still need the larger electrical service.

Modern Life Consumes Electricity

Here are typical amperage requirements for some common household appliances.

Electric Range: 40A

Wall Oven: 40A

Modern Electric Clothes Dyer: 30A (min.)

Air Conditioner, outside unit: 25A (min.)

Air Conditioner, inside unit: 15A

Microwave: 12A

Toaster: 12A

Hair Dryer: 12A

Dishwasher: 15A

To calculate how many amps an appliance needs, divide the wattage by 120 (normal household voltage). For example, a microwave oven that uses 1800 watts needs a 15 amp circuit. (Amps = Watts/Volts)

Safety Note

The service entry cable should always be protected from the elements, and from the possibility of abrasion or fraying. Soil settling around the foundation of a house can pull the cable conduit away from the meter box, with potentially disastrous consequences.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.

Tags: electric, electrical system, renovation, safety, upgrade
Posted in Bad Things, Information, Maintenance | 1 Comment »

The Rain in the Drain Stays Mainly… Where?

Saturday, July 10th, 2010 by Inspector Bob

Is the rainwater flowing through your gutters and into your downspouts really going where you think it is? Often during Home Inspections, or home checkups, I explain to my clients that I can only surmise where the water from the roof and downspouts is going based on stains, erosion, specific plant growth and other indicators. To really know where the water is going you need to walk around in the rain.

This gutter needs attention!

Gutters that seem to be working fine can be overflowing, leaking or be clogged without any outward signs on a dry day. It takes a good, long, heavy rain to show the signs of problems. Downspouts may be directing water to unwanted places, or there could be ponding right by the splash block. Ideally, water should be carried at least six to eight feet away from the house before you release control of it; even then, it needs to be flowing AWAY from the house, not back towards a corner where it will find its way to your foundation. If there’s another house close to yours, note where the water from that house is going. Are their downspouts pointing at your foundation? Fixing a problem may require you to talk to your neighbor.

How is the sump pump working? Where does the output of the sump pump go? It should be treated just like another downspout: make sure that the water doesn’t flow back towards the house and the foundation. Otherwise you’ll just be pumping the same water over and over again.

More than half of wet basements are caused by gutter and downspout issues, so take advantage of the rain to go look outside at your drainage. Get wet so your basement will stay dry. If you spot drainage issues, it’s a good idea to take a picture or video, to help you pinpoint the problem areas after the rain has stopped.

Tags: basements, drainage, gutters, rain, sump pump, water
Posted in Common Sense, Maintenance | No Comments »

East Coast Endures Heat Wave: How’s Your House Holding Up?

Wednesday, July 7th, 2010 by Inspector Bob

The Washington, DC area is in the midst of a sizzling heat wave, with triple-digit highs. Air conditioning units are being stretched to the limit, and some residents are finding out that their systems are just not up to the task of keeping the house cool. But is it the air conditioner, or something else?

Air Leaks

Some common sources of air leaks

Unintentional air leaks can suck cool air out of living spaces, drawing in more hot air from outdoors. Even tiny gaps around recessed light fixtures, vents and other penetrations can add up to a lot of leakage. A simple way to track down air leaks is to light a stick of incense and go through the house, checking around every wall penetration (electrical switches and outlets, exterior doors and windows, ceiling lights, etc.). When you find a draft, plug it with insulation, caulk or weatherstripping.

Insufficient Insulation

Insulation was swept aside for access and not replaced.

In the DC area, the minimum recommended insulation level is R-38. R-40/50 is better, and that is 14” of Fiberglas or 10” of cellulose at a minimum, with no paths, gaps or voids. A single small void can reduce the overall R value in the entire attic.

Contractors working in attic spaces sometimes clear footpaths through insulation and fail to replace it or fluff it back up as they leave. Settling is also an issue; you should inspect your attic regularly to make sure the insulation is in place.

One common weakness in attic insulation is the access hatch. It rarely has the recommended insulation, and that means a big reduction in overall attic protection. One way to insulate the hatch is to construct a simple open-bottomed box out of rigid foam insulation and silver foil tape (which is rated up to 150 degrees). This keeps the access hatch insulated, and is easily moved aside when you need to get into the attic.

Inadequate Ventilation

A powered attic fan can help your HVAC efficiency

If the attic is 150 degrees, and you want the living space at 72, the insulation better be in really, really good shape. I have recorded temperatures above 150 during my inspections. The passive ridge vents just don’t hack it in our area; you really need active ventilation, meaning a powered fan, to keep the attic between 110 and 120 degrees or cooler. Look at it this way: If you have an AC/Heat pump in the attic, and its metal chassis is at 150 degrees, how is it going to pump out 65 degree air without spinning the electric meter really fast?

Lack of Maintenance

If your HVAC unit is in the attic, it needs regular attention. Air filters need to be changed every 30 days. AC units must be serviced each spring to make sure they have the right amount of coolant or you will have high electric bills and the unit won’t stand a chance of keeping up on these triple-digit days.

Design Considerations

The design temperature in the DC area is 95 to 100 degrees. This means that units are designed to be working at 100% capacity when the outside temperature is 95 to 100degrees and the inside “middle of the room” temperature is 78 degrees. If your unit is cycling on and off on a day like today, there is a problem. This could indicate that the unit is too big and is cooling the house too fast and not dehumidifying the house, so it will be cold and clammy because it is not running long enough to remove the humidity. Units need to be running 14-20 minutes before they reach peak dehumidification. If it cycles before that, you have a problem.

If your unit is undersized, you will not be able to cool the house down no matter how long the unit runs. This is why it is critical to have a properly-trained technician assess your home’s heating and cooling needs. Ask for a “Manual J” assessment; this is an industry standard survey that measures the square footage of window and wall space, along with other factors, to determine the house’s requirements.

A lot of the efficiency of an HVAC unit also hinges on proper installation; I have seen too many houses with improperly installed systems and/or faulty ductwork.

Practical Issues

The temperatures we’re seeing in the DC area are outside the normal range, and it really isn’t practical to install HVAC systems that can handle occasionally extreme temperatures. Doing so means the unit won’t operate efficiently on the more normal days, and will just increase the operating and maintenance costs.

Tags: air conditioning, attic, heat wave, HVAC, insulation, temperature, ventilation
Posted in Information, Maintenance | No Comments »

Deferred Maintenance: Penny Wise, Pound Foolish

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010 by welmoed

Times are tight, so you really don’t want to spend the money on expensive home improvements. You might even be tempted to forgo some routine maintenance around the house. After all, if it’s not broken, why spend money fixing it? Because deferred maintenance is a ticking time bomb that can lead to disastrous consequences.

Roofs and Gutters

Moss growing on the roof is a sign of advanced deterioration.

A roof covering system has a definite service life. Are your 20-year shingles approaching their mid-teens? If the roof is not leaking, it might make it another year, but if it is leaking you are risking hidden damage to the roof deck, the underlying insulation, or the room below. Moisture plus organic material (wood) plus time equals trouble.

Roofs don’t need much maintenance other than making sure they are free of debris. If the roof is shaded by trees, make sure there are no branches touching the house, and check periodically for any moss or other growths, as this can shorten the life of the roof.

Gutters should be kept free of debris. This includes the downspouts and splash blocks. Clogged gutters are one of the main causes of both roof damage and damp basements.

The HVAC System

A filter this dirty means the furnace is gasping for air.

Your low-efficiency furnace still works, and replacing it with a high-efficiency unit might not be in the budget. Maybe it can wait another year, but it’s important to get the current unit serviced so you get the most out of it.

One major cause of furnace issues is failure to change the air filter on a regular basis. The better filters can cost more than $20 each, and should be replaced every 30 days. Even though the label claims it can last up to 90 days, that assumes no carpets, pets, children or long hair. It is better to use the cheaper filters and replace them more often.

Make sure outside units have adequate airflow. Keep bushes and other vegetation well away from them.

Plumbing

The green corrosion on these copper pipes means they have been leaking.

Most plumbing maintenance consists of fixing the small problems before they grow into big ones. There are two components to plumbing leaks: the flaw in the system that needs to be repaired, and the wasted water itself. Even a leaky faucet can affect your water bill: one drip per second can waste more than 3000 gallons of water in a year!

Leaks in pipes can sometimes be sneaky. A pinhole leak behind a wall can damage the framing, insulation, drywall and any wiring in the area, and that can get very expensive to repair. Fixing small leaks can be a DIY job; local home improvement stores often hold free classes on how to repair pipes. (Hint: take the class BEFORE you have a plumbing problem!). Your public library is also a good source for home repair books.

While you’re checking for leaks, don’t forget to check the toilets. Replacing the ball valve in the tank is a simple fix.

If you have a septic system, have it pumped and inspected regularly. Don’t overload the system with non-organic materials (such as “flushable” kitty litter), and use as little chlorine bleach as possible. Failure to maintain a septic field can cause it to fail, which is both smelly and very expensive to fix.

Electrical

Charred wires are a warning that there may be serious issues with the electrical system.

Electrical systems don’t require much maintenance other than paying attention to small problems and addressing them before they cause big problems. Seemingly minor issues, such as a stubborn outlet that only works when you wiggle the plug in it, can actually be big problems. A loose connection can generate heat, which can build up behind a wall and cause a fire. Or, a loose wire can cause fatal shocks.

Test your ground fault circuit interruptor (GFCI) outlets regularly. Don’t just press the “test” button; plug something into the outlet first to check that the power actually goes out when you test it.

Smoke Detectors

If a smoke detector is so old its plastic case is yellowed, it's long since time to replace it.

Replace the Batteries twice a year. If the units are more than seven years old, replace them. Don’t risk your life or your house because you didn’t have working smoke detectors. If you have any type of gas appliances, you should also have a carbon monoxide detector.

Natural Gas or Propane Service

Bob leaves his "calling card" in a dirty furnace as a reminder to get it serviced.

Gas appliances should be serviced regularly. Corroded pipes or fittings can lead to gas leaks, which can lead to disaster. A service technician can ensure that fittings are tight and burners are working properly. This can also reduce the chances of carbon monoxide poisoning.

Driveway

Small cracks allow water to penetrate beneath the driveway. This not only leads to larger cracks, but also gives plants a place to take root and undermine the pavement. Patch cracks when they appear, and you’ll dramatically prolong the life of your driveway.

Pay Attention!

It’s easy to overlook small issues when you’re living in a house. You see them every day and have learned to live with them. Make it a habit to go through your home on a regular basis (preferably every month) and make a list of the little maintenance jobs that need to be addressed. These include loose bolts and screws, burned-out lightbulbs, drippy faucets, and doors that stick. Spending a weekend tackling these issues while they’re still minor could mean a lot of time, money and headaches saved in the long run.

Not Sure What Needs Doing?

Contact us for a Home Checkup. We’ll go through the house and identify the issues, and you’ll know just what should be on the to-do list. The Home Checkup even includes a RecallChek, which determines whether any of the appliances in your home are subject to a manufacturer’s recall. To schedule your Home Checkup, use our convenient online scheduling system, or call us at (301) 208-8289.

Tags: home checkup, Home Safety, Maintenance, RecallChek
Posted in Common Sense, Maintenance | No Comments »

Spring Checklist

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010 by welmoed

Now that it looks like Winter has finally released its grip in central Maryland, here are some chores that should be on your to-do list for the upcoming few weeks:

Maintain the Drain

One of the major causes of damage to a house is water infiltration. Your house should have systems in place to channel rainwater away from the house, and these need to be maintained.

This gutter is long overdue for cleaning out!

Clean out gutters and inspect them for damage
Check the roof for missing or loose shingles
Make sure downspouts are free of debris
Check that all downspouts have properly positioned splash blocks.
Make sure any exterior drain grates are free of debris

Prepare the Pipes

Make sure that water flows where and when you want it to.

This hose bib isn't secured in the wall, leaving gaps for infiltration by air, water and critters.

Turn on water to outside hose bibs and check for any leaks.
Make sure water heater temperature is lower than 120 degrees.
Check all hoses for cracks, leaks or pinholes.

Keep the Critters Out

Warmer weather means more insects, birds and other critters. Take the time to make sure they won’t set up housekeeping within your walls!

This gap in the brick siding has already become a nesting spot.

Trim shrubbery so it doesn’t touch the house
Check soffit vents for any holes or tears
Check ridge vents for holes or tears

Clogged dryer vents cause fires!

Check dryer vent outlet for debris or bird damage (it’s a favorite spot for nesting); clogged vents are the culprit in up to 30% of house fires. Read more about dryer vent safety.
Clear dead branches from the roof and around the house

Plan on Energy Savings

The summer heat will be upon us before we know it, so now’s the time to prepare for it.

Clogged air filters rob your furnace of efficiency.

Get your air conditioning system serviced now, before the rush.
Change the air filter
Check the attic insulation; adding more now will help keep your cooling bills down.
Check for drafts with a stick of incense; caulk any gaps. Here’s how to check for drafts.
Replace incandescent light bulbs with compact fluorescent (the newer bulbs are much better in mimicking the warmer incandescent light)

Be Mindful of Safety Issues

The warmer months mean lots of indoor and outdoor activity. Make preparations now to ensure that you’ll be safe this summer!

This deck railing is already pulling away from the wall and is a major safety hazard.

Check all railings for stability. This includes interior stair railings, deck rails, and bathroom grab bars.
Check your smoke detectors; you should have replaced the batteries when you changed your clocks to daylight savings time. However, if they are nearing 10 years old, it’s time to replace them.
Add a Carbon Monoxide detector near sleeping areas.

Time for a Check Up?

Inspections by Bob does Maintenance Check-Ups! If you’ve been in your house for seven or more years, it’s definitely time for a check-up. Just like people, houses change over time as they age, and it’s important to make sure all the systems are working properly. Find out more about Maintenance Check-Ups!

Tags: energy, Maintenance, safety, spring
Posted in Common Sense, Maintenance | No Comments »

When Was Your Last Checkup?

Thursday, March 18th, 2010 by welmoed

Houses change over time, and, just like people, need regular checkups.

house-examine2

Home checkups are for people who not moving, but want to find out what needs attention and how they might improve the efficiency, safety and comfort of their homes. We use the same inspection book as our Premium Home inspection, and include a pre-paid RecallChek form that you can fill in after the inspection to see if there are any hidden recalls on any of your appliances (A $29.95 value; find out more).

Bob will go through each room of the home: every closet, every cabinet and home area, looking for indications or instances of things that could be issues or could become issues. Additionally Bob will inspect the floors, walls, windows, ceilings, hardware, fixtures, outlets and registers. The electrical panel, heating and cooling systems and plumbing systems of the home will be inspected and evaluated. If appropriate Bob may go into the attic and crawlspaces and walk the roof of the home. If Bob is unable to walk the roof he may use binoculars to inspect it. Bob will walk the exterior of the home and look at the exterior of windows and doors, gutters and grading. Bob may also take pictures of the home and any defects he finds. At the end of the Home Checkup, Bob will provide you with a report describing his observations about your home. Bob may also either print relevant pictures onsite or email them to you that night.

Additionally, while Bob is inspecting the house, he will be looking for possible sources of DRAFTS, the number one energy waster in most homes and the leading cause of comfort complaints. He may use a hand-held “fogger” that uses a non-toxic food grade liquid to generate “smoke” to be able to reveal drafts. Thermal imaging is available for an additional fee, but requires additional time, setup, and the right weather conditions (ask if thermal imaging is available when you schedule your inspection).

At the end of the Home Checkup, Bob will prepare an inspection report book, including a summary of his findings that can become your “to-do” list.

Home Checkups are an investment in
your home’s efficiency, safety and comfort.

Before calling for a Home Checkup, there are a few things you need to do to prepare for the inspection. Everything needs to be running and accessible.

Bob will want to go into every room and closet, so remove any obstacles blocking access.
He will need to be able to get to the electrical panel, the furnace(s), fireplaces, Water heaters, gas meters, and other such items. There needs to be enough room around them for him to inspect them and, if appropriate, open them for further inspection.
All doors (exterior and garage) should be unlocked and accessible.
Anything in the way of attic or crawl space access should be removed.
Any manuals or service records for systems should out and available.

A home checkup can take upwards of an hour per 1,000 sq. ft. so a typical 2,500 sq. ft. home should take about 2½ hours to inspect. This will vary depending on the particular home, its age, components and how much stuff Bob has to work around. Also, allow an additional half hour or more for going over the report with Bob.

Schedule your Home Checkup online!

For more information about our services, please call us at (301) 208-8289.

Tags: home checkup, RecallChek
Posted in About IBB, Home Safety, Maintenance | No Comments »

Testing a Sump Pump

Monday, March 8th, 2010 by welmoed

The house you are considering has a sump pump, but does it work? You might be able to test it yourself fairly easily; if not, you may want to ask the seller to have it tested.

Obviously if the sump pipe is wet, or the ground around the outlet is wet, it has run recently. If the sump crock is open at the top, you can pour a bucket of water in and see if the pump starts up. If you can reach the float, you can raise it, and see if the motor starts running.

If the sump crock is SEALED, you may be able to test it anyway IF IT HAS TWO WIRES rather than just one.

The position of the float turns the pump on and off.

One wire is the float switch, the other goes to the pump itself. By unplugging the switch AND the pump and then plugging the pump directly into the outlet, the pump should come on.

The pump wire is plugged into the float wire.

Once you have verified that the pump is running, unplug it again and put it back the way you found it. Don’t let the pump run for more than a few seconds if the crock is dry; it could damage the pump.

Posted in Maintenance | No Comments »

Ice Dams: Prevention is the Key

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010 by welmoed

The Mid-Atlantic region had a “major snow event” last week, and one of the byproducts of all that snow has been a huge ice-dam problem.

How an ice dam works

Ice dams can happen any time snow falls on a sloped roof, especially if the gutters are clogged with debris and the attic is poorly insulated. Heat from the interior melts the underside of the snow pack; this water flows down the roof and is stopped by a buildup of ice at the edge. With nowhere to go, the water pools at the edge and rises under the shingles, where it then can flow down through the attic space and into the ceilings and walls of the house.

Heat from the house can get into the attic several ways.

Houses with very shallow or non-existent eaves are more likely to experience ice dams, as the edge of the roof is directly above the heated living space. Also, if you have recessed ceiling lights, they may also allow heated air to leak into the attic.

Once you have ice dams, there’s not really much you can do about them.
After the snow melts, though, you will need to do several things to prevent them from happening again.

Insulate the attic, especially at the eaves. Any insulation that got wet from a leak must be removed and replaced. The best thing is to insulate the floor of the attic, so heat from the house doesn’t penetrate the attic. This will also reduce your heating bill. Keeping the attic cold during the winter will prevent the snow on the roof melting from the inside out.
Keep your gutters clean. Have them inspected and repaired, if necessary. Gutter helmets and other debris guards will not protect against ice dams.
Have a roofer install ice and water shield underneath the first few courses of shingles on your roof. This will create a waterproof layer of protection for the lower edge of the roof, so any accumulated water that gets under the shingles can’t penetrate to the sheathing.

A waterproof membrane under the shingles can prevent water damage

Tags: ice dam, insulation, leaks, roof
Posted in Bad Things, Maintenance | No Comments »

What Will Happen to Your House?

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010 by welmoed

The History Channel has an excellent series called “Life After People.” There’s a new episode airing tonight that should be of particular interest to homeowners: “Home Wrecked Homes”.

From the HistoryChannel.com website:

Examine the apocalyptic fate of every home in the world. Gas leaks turn suburbs into infernos; a famous castle is toppled by a hidden flaw. Paint causes some high-end homes to explode in flames. Houses fall from the world tallest apartments to the most crowded complexes.

We’ve written before about what happens to houses that aren’t maintained properly, or that have their utilities shut off. It will be interesting to see how this is portrayed in this program!

Posted in FYI, Maintenance | 1 Comment »

Save 13%-70% on your Cooling Bill!

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010 by Inspector Bob

The Standard Seasonal Efficiency Ratio (SEER) for Air conditioners only ten years ago was around 10-13. A top of the line central air conditioner can now hit a SEER of 21, for a Potential savings of 38%. If your unit was not maintained properly, or was an even a lower SEER unit, your savings could be even more. The savings for heat pumps are similar, but heat pumps don’t have quite as high a SEER as air conditioners, but they also started out lower. The changes in heating performance are nice, but nowhere as great as the cooling. Those with gas heating and electric air-conditioning will see the greatest savings in the summer.

Other advances

Multispeed indoor AND outdoor units are much quieter and save more money by matching the compressor and fan speeds to actual need. Additionally they also control humidity much better than single speed units.

There are also better filters (We like the 4” pleated) that work better but do not need to be changed every month and don’t generate Ozone like some of the Electrostatic unit. UV Lamps in duct work serve to sterilize mold spores and pollen, further reducing potential allergens.

Modern thermostats are now typically programmable for setbacks during off periods and can even cope with larger setbacks without invoking the dreaded Heat-Pump Auxiliary Heat.

Compare the SEER ratings to calculate your energy savings.

How much you will actually save will depend on how you live, your thermostat settings, the age of your equipment and more, but from the chart at left, you can see that the potential savings can be substantial.

As little as 8 years ago, SEER 8 units were still being sold and installed because they were cheap. It was only in 2006 that a minimum allowable SEER was mandated, and that was only 13.

Want to get an idea of what you might save? Take your HIGHEST electric bill and subtract your LOWEST. What is left typically represents your highest cooling cost. Then multiply by the appropriate factor from the table. You may not get that savings every month, but it gets the point across.

Last year, we had our furnace and heat pump units replaced, even though they were just ten years old. Since then, we’ve seen between 30%-50% drops in our electric bills. At this rate, the new system will have paid for itself within five years. Not a bad return on our investment!

Coming Up Next

There have been big changes in Refrigerator and Freezer efficiencies. You may want to unplug that old freezer in the basement after reading what we have learned! Look for that article soon!

Tags: air conditioning, energy, heat pump, savings, SEER, utilities
Posted in FYI, Maintenance | 1 Comment »

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