Dual-pane windows were invented in 1935 but weren’t widely used in the United States until the 1950s. Our windows were manufactured by Andersen and they are true divided-light single-pane casement windows. When the house was built, fuel oil was inexpensive, so it was more cost-effective to simply burn more oil than it was to invest in insulation and very costly dual-pane windows – not when you consider that our house has 40 windows incorporating a whopping 136 separate window sashes!!

A single-pane window has an R-value of 0.91. Dual-pane windows usually have R-values starting at 2.0, and super-efficient triple-pane windows can achieve R-values greater than 3. But there’s more to windows than just numbers.

There are three methods of heat transfer: radiation, conduction, and convection. Radiation is the heat you feel from the sun; it warms objects. Conduction is heat that passes through materials; nature will always try to balance the heat on both sides of a barrier.

The last method is most important when considering windows: Convection. When the warm air in a room hits the cold window glass, it loses heat. The now-cold air sinks down, pulling more warm air in behind it. This creates what is called a Convection Current, and it creates drafts that can make a room much less comfortable.

With heating oil hovering at the $4 mark, we started looking for ways to reduce the drafts in our old windows. One of the methods we tried last winter was to cover the window screen inserts with insulating window film; the kind you attach with double-sided tape and shrink to fit with a hair dryer.

These worked, sort of. The main problem was that the air gap they created was nearly 2 inches wide – plenty of space for a convection current to be created in the gap. So we were still losing heat; it was now just a two-step process. They tended to wrinkle, and were prone to tearing. Also, covering the screens meant we couldn’t open the windows for ventilation.

A few months ago Bob started researching other options. He had decided that plexiglass inserts were going to give us the best results, but the issue was finding a supplier that could both cut to very precise tolerances (to the nearest 1/32^nd inch), and at a price that wouldn’t require a second mortgage. He finally chose TAP Plastics.

So we started measuring the windows. A regular measuring tape simply wasn’t going to be accurate enough, as we had to be as precise as possible so we could get the tightest fit. Bob found this ruler at the hardware store and it was the perfect tool for measuring inside dimensions.

This is a Lufkin X46 Extending Ruler. It has a brass extension bar that lets you get amazingly precise inside readings. To make sure we got the most accurate measurements, we each took them independently and then compared numbers. If we didn’t get the same numbers, we went back and re-measured. A lot of work, but the end result would be worth it.

We then ordered the plexiglass. For most of the panes, we chose 1/8” thick clear plexi, so there would be less chance of wobbling or warping. For the smaller panes (the ones in the French doors, which we would have to do individually), we chose 3/32” plexi.

Installation

Each piece of plexiglass was protected by two sheets of blue adhesive plastic. To get started, Bob would peel the plastic off one side of the plastic, and then set it in place in the sash, right up against the muntins. This would leave a gap of between 5/8” and ¾” – just right to create a true dead air gap.

While pressing the plexi against the window, Bob started to peel back the front protective plastic. To hold the plexi in place, he used these little things:

They’re called glazier’s points, and they’re meant to hold panes of glass in window sashes. They’re usually covered up by the window putty. In our case, we were going to use them to hold the plexi tightly against the sash. They are just pushed into the wood frame with a flat tool, like a paint scraper. Each sash required about a dozen points.

Once the plexiglass is installed, it is hardly noticeable:

So, did it work?

We’ll let the pictures tell the story.

This is a three-sash window on a north-facing wall. The left sash is the plain single-pane window glass. The center sash has the screen insert with the window film applied to it. The sash on the right has the plexiglass installed in both the lower and upper sashes. It’s a huge difference!

Here’s another example.

This is a French door on the opposite wall of the same room. Only one pane has the plexiglass on it. Can you guess which one?

We now have this plexiglass insert in every single-pane window in the house. The total cost for the plexiglass was about $1800, plus another $40 for many packages of glazier’s points (we’ve managed to clear out the stock in all three area hardware stores). Applying the plexi took about five minutes per sash; it took more time to wash each window thoroughly before the application!

The answer is lots. Although condos are generally smaller and buyers shouldn’t have to worry about the exterior, grounds, foundations, roofs and other sections usually inspected for a single family home or townhouse, there are still plenty of things that need to be inspected to make sure they are safe.

None of the maintenance of a condominium complex's exterior is the responsibility of a unit's owner. However, we will still inspect it for safety and suitability.

As with all our inspections, we start with the exterior, even though this common property is the management’s responsibility:

• Are the walkways safe, with smooth, even surfaces and no trip hazards
• Are the handrails present and secure
• Are the elevator inspections up to date
• Are the exterior doors secure

Problems with these areas point to maintenance problems overall and suggest that the buyer re-examine the Condo documents for maintenance plan and budget.

We then go inside the unit and continue the inspection.

• Does the age of the development mean a LEAD PAINT waiver may be required?
• Are any outlets painted over?
• Have the smoke detectors been replaced, and are there an adequate number of detectors?
• Is the water temperature safe?
• Is the stove properly anchored?
• Is the electrical panel accessible and appropriate?
• Do all the appliances work?
• Are there GFCI’s in all the appropriate places?
• Is the HVAC system in working order and has it been maintained?
• Have any of the appliances been recalled? (we run RecallCheks on Condo appliances as part of our inspection)
• Are the bathroom walls/tile in serviceable shape?
• Do the toilets work properly and are they securely anchored to the floor?
• Do sinks drain properly? (the pipes belong to the association)

Special Considerations for Condos

When you buy a single family home, you own and are responsible for all the systems and structure of the home. However, in a Condominium, your ownership stops at the drywall. Everything inside the walls (plumbing pipes, vents, electrical wiring, wall studs) are the property of the condo association and, usually, unit owners are NOT permitted to repair or alter these systems.

This water damage in a condo unit could lead to structural issues like rot, but the unit owner is not permitted to repair it as the pipes belong to the Association.

There are several issues that are cause for serious concern because even if YOU address YOUR UNIT, the issues may exist above, below and to each side of you.

• Recalled Electrical Panels: FPE Panels were popular when many high-rises were built in the 60′s and 70′s
• Polybutylene Piping: This is rarely discussed in Condos or Apartments because acknowledging the problem would mean system wide replacement, which would be extremely costly.
• Asbestos on Steam/heating Piping
• Lack of Smoke Detectors because the units didn’t require then when built
• Overly long dryer vents with no plan to routinely clean them (they go through common space and are in the walls so they are the Association’s responsibility)

Condo/Apartment living does have its advantages, but everything INSIDE the unit is your responsibility so make sure everything is working properly before you buy the unit. Even though the systems and all the stuff in the walls is someone else’s responsibility, you want to know if they ARE maintaining it properly.

The spots on this floor may not look pretty, but they don't affect the function of the floor, or present a trip hazard, so they fall under "cosmetic."

There are a lot of common defects that by themselves pose no concern.

• Drywall nail pops
• Drywall tape peeling
• cracks at the junction of walls and/or ceilings
• Floor squeaks
• Cracks above doors and other wall openings
• Carpet stains
• Bleaching of carpets or floors due to sun
• Fading paint
• Fading window treatments

These are all considered cosmetic as they have no effect on the serviceability of the structure or system. Only if the defect is accompanied by other symptoms or indicators such as moisture stains, moisture, movement, displacement or unevenness is it an issue, and then we are looking for the CAUSE, not necessarily the cosmetic symptom.

A nail pop by itself is rarely of issue. However, a rusty nailpop surrounded by a water stain is a different matter. Cracking drywall bead at corners or ceilings is very common and, unless accompanied by water or rust stains, is more an indicator or poor drywall technique than anything else.

Exterior wood often shows cosmetic issues long before they become serviceability issues. Often all that is needed is cleaning, priming, maybe some putty, and some paint. In other words, routine upkeep and maintenance, which is something that is very hard to get Realtors to even write up. Even If the wood is really soft, wet, or possibly the damage goes through the exterior surface, unless it endangers the structure or function, involves pests, or poses a safety risk, it all falls under “cosmetic” and is the responsibility of the buyer to address. If the surface has been repaired and is sound, like at the bottom of doors, it can be really ugly but not be anything more than Cosmetic.

The glazing on this window is damaged and the trim needs to be painted. But the window still works as intended, so the damage is cosmetic.

Doors that bind are another common fault. Is there something hanging from the door that has warped it or may be interfering with it? Has the door been painted numerous times? Only when the door is racked, and there are additional signs such as an uneven floor, uneven cracks, or other doors in the vicinity that also have issues (in the same direction) do we start looking for additional faults. If a single door sticks or is hard to open/close, it probably needs routine adjustment and is not a sign of something more sinister.

So in general, even if there is cosmetic damage to a property (and yes, rot can fall into this category), unless it is interfering with the serviceability of the component, a seller may not be required to fix the damage. For example, a window can have rotted or ugly trim, but if you can still open and close the window, see out of it, and it’s keeping the weather out, the damage is considered cosmetic. The damage should be repaired or replaced, but it will likely be the responsibility of the new owner. However, if the damage prevents the window from opening, then it is no longer functioning as designed and can occasionally be written up.

Why occasionally, and not always? Most current contracts only allow defects that fit into five specific categories (roof, appliances, electrical, plumbing, heating) to be addressed as part of a Home Inspection contingency. Everything else is considered cosmetic, or needs to be addressed in a different section of the contract. Note that structure, air conditioning, and safety are noticeably absent from the list.

The lesson is to understand both the scope of a Home Inspection and the contents of your contract. Here is where your realtor should be watching out for your best interests.

Would you believe… neither?

Calculating the cost savings for replacing either an HVAC unit or windows can be tricky, but it’s worth doing the math to make sure you’re spending your improvement dollars wisely.

Keeping your cool

Let’s take the example of an older gas furnace/AC unit. If the average summer electric bill is $300 and the average winter bill is $175, then the AC component of the electric bill is around $125 per month. Older units can have efficiency ratings of around 8, and new ones are rated at 16, so in theory, you could cut the AC component of the electric bill in half. But how much are you saving, really?

In the DC area, air conditioning is used for three to four months of the year. Even if you upgrade to a unit with double the efficiency of the old unit, your total savings could be surprisingly small:

Old unit: $125 x 4 months = $500 electricity cost for AC

New unit: $75 x 4 months = $250 electricity cost for AC

So the new unit will save you $250 per year. Assuming you spend $6000 on the new unit, the payback period could be as long as 24 years… much longer than the expected lifespan of the new equipment. If your existing equipment is still working, a more cost-effective option is regular maintenance. Have it tuned, change the filters regularly, and make sure all ductwork is sealed properly.

Uninsulated ductwork in attics leads to excessive energy loss and increased utility bills.

What about windows?

Window efficiency is expressed as “R value.” An old single-pane window has an R value of one; if it has a storm window, it goes up to two. A new modern double- or triple-pane insulated window can have an R value between 3 and 6. Replacement windows start at around $250 per standard opening (and that would be for vinyl single hung inserts with an R value of 3), and an average house has about 12 windows, replacing them all can easily exceed $3000. Full replacement with wood-framed windows can easily be triple that. That’s a lot of electricity cost to recoup.

Simply closing the latch on this double-hung window will help lower energy bills.

Before choosing to replace windows, make sure the gaps around the frames are well-caulked. Fix any loose latches or hardware so the windows close tightly. Add operable draperies to cut down on heat gain/loss.

One upgrade that makes sense

An item that is often overlooked as an energy hog is the refrigerator. A fridge that is only 5 years old may be using twice as much energy as a newer model, and fridges use much more energy than people think. After all, they are running all the time! Many houses also have a second fridge in the basement, often containing just a few items. These smaller secondary fridges are usually bigger energy hogs than the one in the kitchen. Replacing an inefficient fridge with a new Energy Star rated model could pay for itself in energy savings within five years.

The broken icemaker and stains on the gasket indicate this fridge might be a candidate for replacement.

You can check whether it makes sense to replace your own fridge by using the government’s Energy Star Calculator.

“Real Estate bidding wars are back in parts of D.C. area”

That was the headline in last week’s Real Estate section of the Washington Post. To a Home Inspector, that is a very scary prospect: people engaged in bidding wars are often sorely tempted to waive the home inspection clause. This doesn’t just mean less work for Home Inspectors; it also means buyers are setting themselves up for the possibility of major expenses due to hidden defects in the home.

To protect yourself during the homebuying process, remember the “Five W’s” – Who, What, When, Where and Why.

Who is selling the house?

Many of the houses that are being bid on are bank-owned, which usually means it is in foreclosure. Such houses often have significant issues, often due to lack of maintenance. If owners couldn’t pay the mortgage, they probably could not afford regular service on the major systems of the house either.

What is the condition of the house?

Is the house vacant? If so, was it “winterized”? Winterizing is the worst thing you can do to a house. Modern houses are not meant to stray much outside the 55-85°F range. When a house is winterized and left to the elements you will get both cosmetic and system damage; it is just a matter of how bad it is.

The worst issues come when power is cut off, including power to the sump pump. In one winterized house I inspected, the basement flooded, and stayed flooded for a long time because the sump pump had no power.  Everything in the basement was ruined: the walls, carpet, appliances (Furnace, Water Heater, etc.) and the spores from what grew in the basement slowly spread throughout the house via the ductwork. Every surface in the basement was “fuzzy” and the rest of the house was badly contaminated.

In houses with ducted heating and cooling systems, assume that mold issues in the basement have been spread by the ductwork to the rest of the house and are just waiting for the right conditions to grow. Older homes with radiators and only window AC units are much better at containing such problems to the basement.

Broken pipes are also common in winterized houses, especially small breaks that are in walls that take 4-5 hours to show up. If water service is restored just before the inspection, and the inspection only takes 3 hours, the leak doesn’t show up until two hours after we leave – or it might not show up at all if the water is turned off immediately after the inspection. But when the water is restored for you to move in, you are in for a rude surprise, and a hefty repair bill. This is why ALL utilities need to be restored 24-48 hours prior to an inspection.

When was the house built?

At 5 years old, many systems may still be under warranty. Did the owners do the recommended annual maintenance? Are any of the systems subject to a manufacturer’s recall?

At 10 years old, most warranties (appliance, structural, builder, etc.) have expired.

At 17 years old, many appliances, furnaces, water heaters and roofs have reached the end of their useful life.

At 25 years old, many appliances, and systems should have been replaced. Renovations may have been made; were the proper permits obtained?

At 35 years old, most houses have seen at least one renovation. The second roof is nearing the end of its useful life.  Lead Paint could still be present.

At 50 years old, almost all appliances, systems and even the electrical panel have surpassed their useful life.  Insulation is usually minimal, unless renovations have been made. Lead paint is a common finding.

Where were changes made?

The most common places for renovations are kitchens, bathrooms and basements. I often see extensive and costly renovations done in kitchens, but have to report that they failed to put in a $20 Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor (GFCI) outlet. GFCI’s were required in bathrooms since 1975 and in kitchens since 1987, so if the kitchen renovation was done after 1987 there is no excuse for not having these life-saving outlets.

If they moved plumbing, added electrical circuits, or moved a wall they need to have pulled permits. Bathroom renovations are often done without permits because they are only doing cosmetic changes, and not structural, plumbing or electrical. But why spend $10,000 on a bathroom and not put in a $20 GFCI to save your life?

Most basement renovations include adding a few new circuits and probably a bathroom. Were the proper permits and inspections obtained? Basement bedrooms are a particularly sore point: they require emergency egress, either a properly sized window or a door, and a smoke alarm.

Why is the house being sold?

The reason for the sale may be an indicator of what might be lurking unseen. Is it an elderly couple moving to a retirement community? The house is likely older, with minimal updates; clean, but with older, outdated systems nearing or past the end of their useful lives. Is it a short sale? These houses tend to be newer, but with deferred maintenance and possibly vandalism as well. What would have been a minor repair several years ago (a leaking fixture for example) now becomes a major restoration job (replacing rotted flooring).

If you are involved in a bidding war

Ask for an informational-only inspection. This is basically a go/no-go inspection. I do the same inspection as I always do, but you make only a go/no-go decision rather than asking for particular things to be fixed/replaced/addressed.

Some things to think about

• The life of almost all home “systems” is approaching an average of 17-20 years. This includes roofs, furnaces, AC units, Water heaters, dishwashers and washing machines. Some may last much longer (AC units, refrigerators) but will use much more energy than newer units. Buying a 15-17 year old house with original appliances puts you in the danger zone in about 2 years.
• A 15-year-old roof may not be leaking today, but may need replacing in the next 3-5 years. Replacement costs tend to start in the $7,000-$15,000 range for a townhouse or small single-family home. Failure to replace a roof can lead to major structural damage in the framing members, drastically increasing the replacement costs.
• A furnace/AC system may be ‘working’ today, but costing you DOUBLE what a newer furnace might in fuel.  Gas and Oil furnaces could be spewing unseen toxins into the house.
• Appliances that are “only a few years old” can cost more to repair, and re-repair, than a new appliance.
• The toilet that seems just a bit loose may have a rotten floor underneath it that will require MUCH more than just tightening or a new Wax ring.

Still not convinced?

Skipping a Home Inspection is penny wise and pound foolish. Many of our clients have saved thousands of dollars in repairs by having us uncover defects in the houses they were considering. Buying a home is an enormous investment, and a Home Inspection will help make sure you have all the necessary information before you finalize the deal.

The only thing that seems to be certain is that things will fail at either the most inconvenient time (like, right before a party) or when the repair will be most expensive (like, plumbing repairs on weekends).

If anyone had asked us about the water supply to our house yesterday morning, I would have told them it was through a well in our back yard, pumped into a pressure tank, and distributed through the house. And it was working just fine. Had a Home Inspector been doing a report, I’m sure it would have been marked “appears serviceable.”

I did the dishes after dinner without a problem. But just an hour or two later, I turned the faucet in the kitchen to fill a pitcher and… dribble. NOT a good sign.

Bob and I checked for leaks, then worked our way back in the supply lines to the pressure tank and controls. It looked like the pressure valve might have gone bad. In any case, we were without water.

This morning, I called our well pump company (Tri-County Pump Services), and they sent their crew over this afternoon. They quickly determined that the pressure switch was fine; in fact, the pump was operating… It just wasn’t pumping anything. NOT a good sign either. They ended up pulling the pump.

And once we saw the old pump, it became crystal-clear why we weren’t getting any water.

It’s easier to see in this close-up:

See how the ridges of the shaft are almost totally smooth? You can see, higher up on the shaft, just how deep those ridges should be. This pump was installed in 1994, and has been in constant use since then. The average life of a well pump is between 15 and 20 years, so this sits well inside the “anticipated life span”. Its time had come, and it failed without warning.

Yet, a Home Inspector would have no way of predicting when this pump would fail. All they can do is quote statistical data and look for clues. In our case, there were no clues… just sudden failure.

And that’s just the way things happen sometimes. But do they always have to happen on weekends?!?

The falling temperatures are telling us it’s time to prepare for winter weather. You can take care of all of these chores in a single weekend, then relax knowing you’re ready for the cold!

Drain Outside Faucets

Turn off the water supply to all the outside faucets and hose bibs. Disconnect any hoses, then open the faucet to allow the water to drain out. Once the water flow stops, leave the faucet open so it drains and stays empty through the winter. This will help prevent any in-wall damage from frozen pipes.

Water Control

Clean out the gutters and downspouts. Check to make sure the water is being carried at least 6 to 8 feet away from the foundation.

Check the sump pump (and the backup pump, if you have one).

Read more posts about gutters

Furnace Maintenance

Make an appointment to have the furnace serviced.

If you have a heat pump, remove leaves and debris from around the outside compressor unit so it has adequate airflow. Trim any shrubbery that has grown around the outside unit as well; they need 2-3 feet of open space on all sides.

Change the furnace filter.

Change the pad in the humidifier.

Fire Safety

Change the batteries in your smoke detectors (or, if they’re getting close to 10 years old, replace them).

Clean the built-up lint from the dryer hose.

Schedule a chimney inspection and cleaning.

Home Comfort and Energy Efficiency

Check the weather stripping around doors and windows and replace where needed.

Check the insulation in the attic and add batts where necessary (Most attics should be cold during the winter; this helps prevent ice dams).

Vacuum the coils on the fridge and freezer.

Snow Preparations

Remember Snowmageddon? We could get buried again.

Stock up on salt or ice melter (don’t use salt on concrete driveways or steps).

Clean/Wax the snow shovel.

Tune the snow thrower (new plugs/oil/gas treatment).

One Last Thought

Radon levels can rise in the winter as we tighten up our homes. Once you have done your winter preparations, schedule a radon test to determine whether you need to take steps to remediate the levels. Even if you had a radon test a few years ago, it should be repeated periodically to check for changes in the environment. Read more about the hazards of Radon.

• The ground adjacent to the foundation should slope down and away between 1/2″ and 1″ per linear foot. So, six feet away from the foundation, the ground level should be between six and 12 inches lower than right at the foundation wall.
• Make sure gutters and downspouts are kept clear. If you have underground drain pipes, use a garden hose on a dry day to test whether the pipe is draining properly.
• If you have basement windows with window wells, make sure the walls of the window well extend a few inches above the level of the surrounding soil. Keep the window well clear of debris, and consider installing a clear plastic dome over the well to keep water and debris out.
• Sunken and mulched flower beds close to the foundation walls can hold a lot of water, which could then seep into the foundation wall. Make sure any planting beds close to the house can drain properly away from the house.
• Keep exterior stairwells and drains clear of leaves and debris.

If All Else Fails

If you’ve done all the above measures and are still having water infiltration issues, you might need to consult with a professional regarding installing a waterproofing system. These may include French or curtain drains, which involve extensive exterior ground excavation and waterproofing barriers. You may also need a hydrostatic pressure relief system, which pumps water away from the foundation. These systems are not designed to stop water completely, but they do keep it under control. Be sure to get several opinions and estimates on systems before deciding to have one installed.

An Ounce of Prevention

One simple way to prevent most water damage in a basement is to keep everything off the floor several inches. Never keep cardboard boxes directly on the floor, and do a thorough basement inspection periodically to catch any potential problems before they become major.

A round-base meter usually means electrical service of only 50 to 60 amps.

With few of today’s modern conveniences, a house could easily get by with only 50-60 Amps of electrical service, and even today this level of service does not pose a problem, as long as electrical devices are kept to a minimum. However, when homeowners with such basic service start adding modern appliances, they quickly run out of electrical capacity, which can result in local brownouts, blown breakers or fuses, or overheating of wires and a possible fire hazard.

A meter with a small square base is also common with feeds of 50 to 60 amps. Also, noice the frayed service entrance cable on the left.

Computers don’t take much, but they don’t like brownouts or flickers in power. For any type of computer or computerized appliance, it’s a good idea to use surge suppressors and uninterruptible power supplies to prevent damage. This includes computerized sewing machines, exercise equipment, TVs, digital video recorders, and cable boxes.

A large rectangular base usually means a home is supplied with 150A to 200A.

Another consideration when with older homes is that many of the wires coming from the poles to the house, and then down the house to the meter, are 40-50 years old and are now frayed. Often the wire wrapped around the central conductors is now showing through. Contrary to common belief, that is not a ground, but a current-carrying conductor, often carrying substantial current. Although wrapping with tape is acceptable by some, most electricians agree that frayed Service Entrance (SE) cables should be replaced for safety. At a minimum, that wire needs to be replaced so that it is safe and it is a good opportunity to UPGRADE the entire service to a more modern 150-200A service. Most municipalities won’t install less than 125-150A, and most times 200A service is the same price as the lower, so 200A is installed. Even Townhouses and condominiums now are provided with 125-150A service per unit.

This extra-large rectangular meter enclosure is an indication that the service to the house is 400A.

Some all-electric homes, or homes with lots and lots of circuits, may even need a larger service (400A) because of the requirement for no more than 42 circuits per panel, and 150-200A per panel.  With the new rules, the number of circuits per panel is being relaxed, but homes with multiple air conditioners, water heaters, second kitchens, clothes dryers, guest quarters and other large users of electricity may still need the larger electrical service.

Modern Life Consumes Electricity

Here are typical amperage requirements for some common household appliances.

Electric Range:  40A

Wall Oven: 40A

Modern Electric Clothes Dyer: 30A (min.)

Air Conditioner, outside unit: 25A (min.)

Air Conditioner, inside unit: 15A

Microwave: 12A

Toaster: 12A

Hair Dryer: 12A

Dishwasher: 15A

To calculate how many amps an appliance needs, divide the wattage by 120 (normal household voltage). For example, a microwave oven that uses 1800 watts needs a 15 amp circuit. (Amps = Watts/Volts)

Safety Note

The service entry cable should always be protected from the elements, and from the possibility of abrasion or fraying. Soil settling around the foundation of a house can pull the cable conduit away from the meter box, with potentially disastrous consequences.

This cable could rub against the meter housing and lead to a house fire.