In this house, the refrigerator had been removed. In its place was a plastic bowl catching the drips from the disconnected ice maker.

The end of the copper tube had been crimped, but there was still water leaking out. Usually, when a fridge is removed, the water line to the ice maker is shut off at the valve, so there shouldn’t have been any leakage. Maybe the valve wasn’t closed properly. Why?

In the basement, it took some detective work to find the reason… and the valve. The basement had been remodeled, with new drywall installed to cover the ceiling-mounted ductwork. The ceiling had recessed lighting. But where was the valve? There was a small access panel on the side of the new dropped ceiling, and a quick look revealed this:

See the valve, in the copper pipe just over the light fixture? Think you could reach it? It was located about four feet from the access panel. So how are you supposed to reach it?

Remove the cover plate from the light fixture and remove the bulb. Then, unscrew the retaining screws that hold the light fixture in place.

And there you have the valve! Can’t see it? it’s the silver clamp device on the copper pipe. The handle is on top of the pipe, which means you have to wrap your hand around all the electrical cables to get to it.

Bob did tighten the valve to stop the leak in the kitchen, and put everything back together. When he was done, he attached a tag to the light fixture, to alert the homeowner about the valve location.

It’s important to know where all the shutoff valves are in your home. It’s equally important to be able to access them!

This is not storage space.

Because these spaces aren’t meant to be accessed frequently, it’s often difficult or inconvenient to reach them. If there are no utilities or systems installed in the attic space, such as air handlers, the access is usually limited to a simple framed hatch in the ceiling, requiring the owner to set up a ladder to get into the attic. These hatches can sometimes be tricky to spot: they are commonly tucked into closets.

If there is equipment in the attic, there may be a pull-down staircase specifically designed for attic access (but not always; I’ve inspected a house that had an air handler in the attic, with absolutely no access to the space at all!).

Access stairs need to reach the floor.

The stairs were just a little too short, so they "fixed" them.

These stairs come in many different forms, and new styles are constantly being introduced. But they all have something in common: they need to be installed correctly.

Read Label: Install Incorrectly Anyway

Instructions weren't missed... Just disregarded.

I have lost count of the number of attic stair units I have seen which are installed incorrectly (to the point of being unsafe to use), even though the installation instructions are clearly marked on the unit itself. Traditional wooden units are designed to be securely nailed  (with 16d nails or ½” lag bolts) into the attic joists, yet I still see many, many instances where drywall screws or even finishing nails are used. Whenever I encounter a stair unit screwed in rather than nailed, I warn my client to stay clear while I go up them, because if I hear the slightest creak I will be heading back down VERY fast.

Because It’s There

It can be tempting to view the vast open spaces of today’s truss roof as the perfect storage spot. After all, our grandparents stored their stuff in attics for years. But keep in mind that much of what they stored was natural material: cotton, wool, linen and the like. Today’s synthetics simply cannot withstand the same temperature fluctuations, and could deteriorate very quickly. Also, compressing the insulation will greatly diminish its effectiveness, costing you money in heating and cooling.

A Quick Hint

Keep the landing spot clear.

If your pull-down stairs are located in the garage, one common problem is having things in the way when you want to pull the stairs down. To help prevent this, mark out an area around the spot where the stairs meet the floor, and keep that area clear.